How to disassemble your RC Smart - Smart Car Forums
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#1 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 07:37 PM
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How to disassemble your RC Smart

Thanks to GetSmrt28277, I got my Rite aid RC smart
http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/for...ite-aid-33713/
Pulled it out of the box, Got the screwdriver for installing the batteries. Since I didn't have a 9v in the house I was not in a rush to try it out, but I did have a desire to see what all the other screws did.

First off, this little warning piece of paper is included. Modders beware.

First, remove these 3 screws


Then the top comes right off, but note the lighting wires still connected


Loosen (do no't remove) these 2 screws, and the Circuit board the lights are on will slide to the front and out.


Once out, you can tape and paint the headlights and the body is now separate from the base


To remove the dash, once again loosen these two screws just enough so they still stay in the dash, but separate from the body


Pull out the Dash and you can tape and paint.


As you can see this is not a US spec car. No glove box door


One last shot, The Power train really cuts into the storage space on this car


Note, I was not comfortable pulling out the glass on the car. Its all one piece, and looks like it just snaps in, but in a few spots it seemed like it was also glues in. When I paint it I might make more of an effort with glue on hand to put things back together
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#2 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 07:43 PM
ETA? Nah, time to beat...
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For a $20 car the amount of detail is almost stunning!

Knowing me, I probably would've figured this out doing my normal tinkering
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#3 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 07:51 PM
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I have taken 3 apart already and all three were different on the inside. Only one of the three was like Forest's on the inside.

Also the seats are secured by a screw also, but have been glued on a tiny piece. easily put back in with the screw and if you want Krazy glue it secure.

And this is not why mine is so possessed.

After I home tomorrow night I'll post the pics. very challenging here to upload with limited services.
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#4 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 07:52 PM
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Forest...did you like the SHIPPING BOX? hee hee hee
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#5 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 07:58 PM
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Question on paint, does the silver run?

And what kind of tape would be appropriate for the job (I plan to use Krylon Chrome spray so obviously staying between the tape will not be that possible)?

I'm about to get some supplies (I already have rechargeable AAs and numerous 9 volts).


Neon...Planning ahead and hoping to avoid disaster...
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#6 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 08:11 PM
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The best results I had was to prime the very smooth plastic with a flat paint or primer for model cars. this will keep the running to a minimum.

Depending on your color scheme, use a white, grey, or black base on the grey plastic pieces. The colored shell does bleed. I have one apart right now at home getting ready to be painted for my grandaughter. I can let you know what works for me on it later on if needed.

Types of brushes also make a world of difference for this type of detail work. Acrylic vs. oil paint also has to be considered when selecting the brushes.

(okay...I had four brothers and we built model cars and rockets all the time)
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#7 (permalink) Old 09-18-2010, 08:14 PM
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I wasn't planning anything for the interior, just the exterior tridion cell and maybe the grille surround depending on how the cell goes.

Oh no, one member says go spray paint, the other says use model paint...



I never got into the painting model car thing...
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#8 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 05:34 AM
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use ENAMEL, not lacquer. lacquer will eat up most plastics unless it's primered properly. just use enamel to be on the safe side. most model paint IS enamel.
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#9 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 01:55 PM
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I used Krylon Fusion (specifically made for plastic) on the body. On the interior, I stuck with Testor's model paint. When I get around to re-doing mine, I will be priming the interior after scuff-sanding - that slick plastic is hard to get a good coat of paint on.
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#10 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 04:22 PM
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Innerds...

If you have the one with the circuit board on the front, there are 4 screws (2 for the board and 2 for the dash-they are not the same in the one I had)

note the one with all the silicon and the one without.
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