DIY Step by Step Speaker Installation (door)

[Tall Wayne]

Would a sound barrier like Dynamat improve the sound? I will be doing the speaker instillation and wondered if anyone used Dynamat during the job?

[livebig]

Originally Posted by Tall Wayne

Would a sound barrier like Dynamat improve the sound? I will be doing the speaker instillation and wondered if anyone used Dynamat during the job?

I have used Dynamat extreme and something similar called B quiet extreme and the factory stereo sounds MUCH better and I haven't even upgraded yet. The car is also just a much more comfortable and quieter ride using the stuff.

[smartt]

can i put wires from my amp (50RMS) each speaker to the factory wires behind the head unit? There is a connector for a lot of wires in which these speaker wires travel but is it too much for the factory wire and connectors?

[cubefx]

Originally Posted by smartt

can i put wires from my amp (50RMS) each speaker to the factory wires behind the head unit? There is a connector for a lot of wires in which these speaker wires travel but is it too much for the factory wire and connectors?

Factory speakes wiring is more then sufficient for 50RMS.

[smartt]

Thanks a million CUBEfx im running wires for tweeters today and realy dreading runnin the wire through the door much easier with one set than two.. thanks again so much!!

[KeyserSoze]

Just did my installation using Infinity 6022i speakers. Really great bang for the buck mod, it's a HUGE improvement over the stock speakers and I highly recommend doing it.

I made a few adjustments installing the 6022i speakers since they're not drop-in's and have mismatched mounting points.

- removed mirror and door panel per DIY (without removing weatherstripping)
- peeled back insulation
- removed stock speaker and drilled out stock speaker cover
- Dremeled half of the mounting points of the old speakers to form a circle
- positioned and centered the 6022i's and outer mounting plate
- drilled guides for the included smaller screws directly into the door panel, starting at the top, bottom, then sides. The door panel is actually quite thick and the screws drive and hold perfectly. Used a bit of locktite and didn't need any of the mounting or adaptor plates.
- put a few crimped plugs/tape in lieu of the stock connector
- reassemble and voila, sound is 1000% better than the muffled stockers

TIPS: while you're in there, I highly recommend taping down the wires underneath that come through the insulation. This removed buzzing we were having with stereo and it's what the dealer do to solve that issue. I actually mimicked it on the left side when I saw what they did on the right.

Also, to easily get the leading doorskin edge back on, keep your window rolled down and as you're trying to slip the front portion on, use a flatheaded screwdriver to leverage the skin's lip onto the door. The panel is quite flexible so very very little leverage is needed to slip it back on, you'll have to do this on from the inside.

Cheers