Quote:
Originally Posted by DFWehman
Did you find it difficult to remove the seat, I've seen other posts here that indicate the bolts were very tight? It certainly would make routing the wire easier. 25MM if I recall?
Do you feel there is sufficient wire to make the route without removing the seat? My kit is "in the mail"!
|
The bolts to remove the seats aren't really tight at all! At least the few I've done... all hand tight. No, not 25mm. It is a Torx T35 I think.
Really no need to remove the seat. I've done a couple dozen of these now and here are my tips:
1) It can be done in 22 minutes. It isn't that hard and if you go in knowing that maybe you'll relax a bit
But still, give yourself up to 3 hours to finish because it is your first time.
2) Cabrios are harder than coupes because of the space restrictions imposed by the roof mechanism.
3) Try to find the EXACT staples shown on the detailed instructions. If they aren't coming out EASILY and quickly then you aren't doing it right. Read the instructions again, review the pictures, and try again. I can get a pin out in less than a second. Granted, I have experience... but again I think knowing that you might relax and not worry so much about the complaining that goes on and you'll just, as we say, gidderdone.
4) Don't remove the seat. It is a bother, it adds considerably to your time, there is wiring to mess with (and you'll have to have a dealer turn off your SRS light if you mess it up) and it is completely unnecessary unless you have to vacuum up anyway. The carpet is pliable enough to get your fingers in there and just pull it up to tuck the wire under. Or use a dull implement like the end of a toothbrush like someone suggested to push it under the edge. The carpet is stiff but not unmanageable.
5) If you find yourself complaining about your muscles when working in the back, do this. Pause for a moment, put your hands behind your back and arch your back so your head points to the sky... breath... now shout out as loud as you can, "THANK GOODNESS I DON'T HAVE THE MDC!!!". Believe me, THAT puts you in horrible positions and you'll be swearing and complaining a whole lot more! Being able to stand upright during the bulk of the install is an amazing plus from an installer's point of view.
6) Use that flashlight when fishing the wires! It makes it so much easier to see where it is supposed to go. Also, for first timers I really recommend using a stiff wire (coat hanger?) of about 12" in length and tape the switch cable to that when fishing the cable both through the steering column and across to the passenger foot well. I don't use it, but it does make it easier when you're not used to it.
7) Most people complain about the pins. Not me, I complain about the cover that goes over the wires (the one with the VW/Audi logos). You get one clip but it goes back as soon as you try the other one... grr. So I use two flat screwdrivers. First I slip the blade down into the clip and then sort of pry and lift the cover up a tiny amount... just enough to wedge the other blade into the crack that forms. This prevents it from snapping back down. Then I take the first blade and slip it into the 2nd clip and again pry/lift and it easily pops off.
8) The instructions suggest it may be easier to deal with the wires/pins if you clip the black nylon zip strap holding them to the connector block. In my mind... not a suggestion... a requirement. It makes it SO much easier, so just have another nylon strap available and just clip the damn thing.
9) Stiff button/Hard to press the cylinder on/button flies off/etc. Plastic injection moulding has variances caused by expansion and various other factors. There ARE going to be "defects" in this regard. It isn't as exact as electronics. It isn't necessarily even the new part's fault! I've now seen two cars where no matter how many switch cylinders I tried it was always "too tight". This is because when smart makes their wiper switches they use injection moulding too... and they have variance as well. If the switch cylinder is very hard to push on, then you'll likely end up with a sticky button. This is because you're forcing it out of shape which then puts stress at the other end where the button is. This is the tricky part... do you have a defective part or is your original switch just a bit big? Hard to tell. Area 451 has been authorizing people to modify their switches to attempt to rectify the problem without dealing with the time of an exchange, but CONTACT THEM FIRST. If you take out the Dremel without getting some advice, it may not be covered if you cut the wrong thing and ruin it. However, if you are going to attempt modification, this is what I'd focus on:
- First take a look down the inside of the cylinder. At the end is a hole. You shouldn't be able to see much of the spring that goes around that hole. If you can, perhaps use a pencil or small screwdriver to adjust the spring so it is nicely around the hole and not blocking it.
- If the cylinder itself was very difficult to put on, then chances are your switch is "too big" or the cylinder opening is "too small". Either way, I don't recommend you attack your $75 original so focus on the cylinder. On the inside, you'll see two sort of L-shaped protrusions... those are required! But if you see any other ridges or bumps or left-over artifacts from the moulding process maybe those can be sanded smooth. Also slightly sanding around the inside all over may help. It shouldn't take much... if something is "out", it is probably only out by a fraction of a millimeter.
- If the button is sticky, then remove the button and again sand off any left over ridges from the manufacturing process. The button is held on with two "legs" that have "feet" or barbs on the end. So to remove, go up from the inside and press the feet GENTLY toward the inside until they clear the plastic ridge and it pops off. You can do it one side at a time. Careful because once it is free, remember it is spring loaded and will fly off. Don't lose the spring! Also notice that the inside of the button has a shape that is "keyed" so it must go on the same way! It physically will go on either way so you must have it rotated properly. This should help: The "opening" points roughly toward the LED (you'll see). Sand any rough edges both on the button's widest part as well as the interior of the cylinder.
If none of the above helped and you're still finding it hard to push the cylinder on, make sure you're tugging lightly on the cable at the same time ensuring it isn't just bunching up in there. If the button is still sticky... maybe it is time for the exchange.
That isn't to say it is your responsibility to modify the product! These are just tips to avoid having to deal with an exchange, but Area 451 is accepting them as warranty defects with no problem at all. So if you are more comfortable with a simple swap then just contact me (if you got it from me) or them and ask for an exchange.
10) Have fun!
- Steven
1976 Rover Mini
2003 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
2007 Mercedes-Benz E320 Bluetec (SOLD)
2009 smart Passion (Gone)
2011 smart Passion
Today
Linear Mode
