Sorry, It won't work in our smarts. I have one in my Tacoma. I wish I could get one that would fit. The bracket that holds the scangauge would have to mount directly to the mirror mount for it to fit between the mirror and roof. It would also require the mount hole to be drilled at a angle. I think that is the ideal spot for a scangauge in my smart.
Cheapest mount yet - velcro! Here is a picture of someone else's mount, but I have the same. I can remove the scangauge and with the extra cable I ordered, reset check engine lights and retrieve the codes on other vehicles for looking up on the internet. The placement lots of people like, but easier application. And I recommend the "super velcro" or heavy duty velcro. These have larger connectors and won't pull off very easy.
Cheapest mount yet - velcro! Here is a picture of someone else's mount, but I have the same. I can remove the scangauge and with the extra cable I ordered, reset check engine lights and retrieve the codes on other vehicles for looking up on the internet. The placement lots of people like, but easier application. And I recommend the "super velcro" or heavy duty velcro. These have larger connectors and won't pull off very easy.
What is your cable management like? Can you take a photo and show the back side of the mirror?
What kind of radio are you running... if you use a single din head unit then you can mount the SG under it in the second spot... still looks good but all you have to do is get a din cover and it's back to new.
Cheapest mount yet - velcro! Here is a picture of someone else's mount, but I have the same. I can remove the scangauge and with the extra cable I ordered, reset check engine lights and retrieve the codes on other vehicles for looking up on the internet. The placement lots of people like, but easier application. And I recommend the "super velcro" or heavy duty velcro. These have larger connectors and won't pull off very easy.
But I just didn't like the wires hanging down. Removal of the interior windshield finishing covers was the second option (running the wires inside of them) but then you could not remove the unit to use somewhere else as one poster suggested. Well....you could remove the unit but you have to purchase another wire harness then so you can make the unit portable.....
Ah....such decisions!
One guy cut in his unit where the passenger air bag light is....that was THE BEST but putting it there is invasive, so to speak.
Yea, that supervelcro is TOUGH STUFF!
I'm using the velcro approach. The Scangauge cable is not long enough, so you have to add a standard 7' long CAT5 network cable and a coupler. (detailed with prices on other threads - the parts are cheap -- $5.07 delivered!)
The CAT5 cable runs from the Scangauge, behind the window trim and then under the dash where it connects with the coupler to the original Scangauge cable. Since only the CAT5 cable is permanently installed you can easily remove the Scangauge and its cable for use in another vehicle, either temporarily for troubleshooting, or as a second "installation".
But I just didn't like the wires hanging down. Removal of the interior windshield finishing covers was the second option (running the wires inside of them) but then you could not remove the unit to use somewhere else as one poster suggested. Well....you could remove the unit but you have to purchase another wire harness then so you can make the unit portable.....
Ah....such decisions!
One guy cut in his unit where the passenger air bag light is....that was THE BEST but putting it there is invasive, so to speak.
Yea, that supervelcro is TOUGH STUFF!
I drilled one hole the size of the Cat cable in the liner. Then I cut in from the side to get the cable in. When the liner is reinstalled, the cut blends in and only about 4" of cable show. If you can find the off white Cat Cable extension, it is almost the same color as the liner.
I posted pictures of my install on this forum with the liners removed, but a search did not turn it up.
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