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Old 01-07-2009, 09:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Location: Lake Wales, FL
Drive: Trickcruiser PT, Smart
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Button bank mod DIY (garage opener/boot release)

First of all, big props to Kane (aka Evilution)! Thank you!

Here we go.

DISCONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY
IF YOU PLANNING TO DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK IN YOUR CAR.

I decided some time ago that I want to operate my garage door from my smart button bank. Finally I found some time and finished that project.
At the same time, I also added boot release button mod.

I used button #1 for the boot release and button #3 for the garage opener.

Here is the Evilution instructions on how to mod your button bank

I did not removed buttons and shaved the tabs with Dremel.


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Here is the bit I used to shave the tabs.


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Here is Evilution instructions on how to wire the buttons.




3 wires routed behind the button bank.



Button #1 and #3 already prewired, so instead removing them and installing new pins, I just tapped into the existing wiring.


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.
reinstall the button bank.
Now we done with the buttons and the fun part will begin!!!!!

Last edited by cubefx; 01-08-2009 at 08:19 AM..

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Old 01-07-2009, 10:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Lake Wales, FL
Drive: Trickcruiser PT, Smart
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Here is garage opener I used in this project.


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Here is the front side.

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Back side.

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Here is the Photoshopped overlay image of the back/front side.
You can solder directly to the button, but I used nearby terminals.

IMPORTANT: Please make sure that POSITIVE and NEGATIVE wires soldered correctly. If you reverse polarity your mod will NOT WORK!



Striped wire (black/gray) is NEGATIVE/GROUND wire
I drilled small hole in the side of the remote casing and tied a knot so wire will not slide out.


.
I used connectors, so if for some reason I would need to use remote in the other car I could just unplug it.
I did have plug laying around in my garage, but if you want to get exactly the same one you can buy them here

EL Wire Connector set

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Plug attached to the wires connected to the button bunk.


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Remote assembled, and Velcro attached.


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Wires tucked in and remote is hidden behind OBD port (easily accessible if needed).

Now I can control my garage door with button #3!

Last edited by cubefx; 01-08-2009 at 08:31 AM..

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Old 01-07-2009, 10:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: Lake Wales, FL
Drive: Trickcruiser PT, Smart
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Here is most important tools if you want to open the boot with a push of the button on the dash.



Good flashlight.



Use pillow, or you will have bruises on your back from the seat rails. You will spent a lot of time on your back.

Again here is the link to the Evilution Boot release mod


Here is the link on how to lower the SAM unit

I just have some small tips.


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There is VERY LIMITED space to work with SAM unit.
To unplug the #8 plug you will need to push the button and slide the lever.


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It is easier to disassemble the plug if you want to do "proper" wiring.
I tapped in the wire #36 (pink/yellow), soldered and heatshrinked the connection.


That is it!!!!!! Reassemble SAM unit, hide all the wires and you all set!
Now I can open boot with #1 button on my dash.



If anyone have any questions, please feel free to ask!!!!!


CUBE

Last edited by cubefx; 01-08-2009 at 08:33 AM..

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Old 01-08-2009, 02:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Location: Prospect, KY
Nicely done! Thanks for documenting your experience.

I have been wanting to do the trunk release mod, and you just might have given me the final bit of encouragement. The Evilution posting seemed to indicate that I would have to find a specific connector pin to add to the button connector -- you simply tapped into existing wires. I didn't even look at the button connector to see if that was feasible! Duh. Now I'm wondering if the button wires already go to the SAM and could be tapped there, eliminating the need for running an extra wire to the button connector.

Instead of soldering the connections, do you think press-on taps like this would work?

I used them to tap power for my Homelink installation. as I don't like to try to solder in tight spaces -- I inevitably melt something bad! The taps are bulky and ugly, but they seem to work.

Last edited by JimDantin; 01-08-2009 at 02:47 AM..

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Old 01-08-2009, 06:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Location: Kettering, OH
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Great work as usual!

Somebody please buy cube a beer (or two) on me at the next Florida gathering.

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Old 01-08-2009, 06:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Location: Ruskin, FL (near Tampa)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwight View Post
Somebody please buy cube a beer (or two) on me at the next Florida gathering.
If They'll let us drink at the dealership no problem.

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Old 01-08-2009, 11:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Location: maplewood, nj
While it's not something I have a need to do, I appreciate the ingenuity, workmanship and Cube's generosity in documenting another neat DIY. Thanks once again!

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Old 01-08-2009, 12:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimDantin View Post
The Evilution posting seemed to indicate that I would have to find a specific connector pin to add to the button connector -- you simply tapped into existing wires.

Instead of soldering the connections, do you think press-on taps like this would work?

I used them to tap power for my Homelink installation. as I don't like to try to solder in tight spaces -- I inevitably melt something bad! The taps are bulky and ugly, but they seem to work.
There are subtle wiring differences in the smart, it could be that USA 451 are wired already or it could be model dependent.

Any type of clip on wiring connector is the work of the devil. For your own sake, don't use them.
__________________
www.evilution.co.uk - The home of 451 mods, fixes, ideas and information.

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Old 01-08-2009, 01:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Location: Lake Wales, FL
Drive: Trickcruiser PT, Smart
My SCOA Gallery
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimDantin View Post
Nicely done! Thanks for documenting your experience.

I have been wanting to do the trunk release mod, and you just might have given me the final bit of encouragement. The Evilution posting seemed to indicate that I would have to find a specific connector pin to add to the button connector -- you simply tapped into existing wires. I didn't even look at the button connector to see if that was feasible! Duh. Now I'm wondering if the button wires already go to the SAM and could be tapped there, eliminating the need for running an extra wire to the button connector.

Instead of soldering the connections, do you think press-on taps like this would work?

I used them to tap power for my Homelink installation. as I don't like to try to solder in tight spaces -- I inevitably melt something bad! The taps are bulky and ugly, but they seem to work.

They will work, but you might have a problem to fit the cables back in the dash.

CUBE

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Old 01-08-2009, 01:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Location: Terre Haute, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubefx View Post
They will work, but you might have a problem to fit the cables back in the dash.

CUBE
AND, usually over time, corrosion becomes a problem



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