Not all splice and butt connectors are subject to the same problems. Some kits I'll be putting together for another project will use gel-sealed capsules where the insulation-displacement connections are made, protecting from corrosion and quite adequate for automotive applications.
The 3M in-line wire taps are the Scotchlok UG parts found on page 5 of this .pdf and can be purchased from digikey.com in a 19-26AWG compliant size (gel filled) for $0.49 each in small quantities. You can search for other "scotchlok tap" parts but read a little more to make sure the part is still gel filled and not "dry" as found on a few parts. If the insulation diameter is too large, the tap will have trouble fitting so please try to check the sizes first.
Digikey will ship small orders; go USPS first class for such a small order and you'll have what you need without spending $20 or more at your local hardware store.
Thank you for the details on your wiring. I tackled the garage door button project last weekend. For my garage door button, I choose button #1. The dremel worked great. The wiring worked great. The garage door went up at the press of the button.
However, I kept going through batteries. So I disconnected the remote checked the wires for resistance and found the blue/yellow wire from pin #8
has a positive 12v charge once the wiring harness is reconnected to the button bank.
How did you resolve the voltage problem?
(Btw: I reused your photo to illustrate. thanks)
Last edited by frozendog; 04-14-2009 at 09:34 PM.
Reason: wrong color noted
Awesome mod, I had been looking to do the rear hatch button, but had never thought of wiring the garage door opener in there. My remote has a plug on it already for homelink or similar systems. Now I just need the time to poke around in the car and a new soldering iron.
Thank you for the details on your wiring. I tackled the garage door button project last weekend. For my garage door button, I choose button #1. The dremel worked great. The wiring worked great. The garage door went up at the press of the button.
However, I kept going through batteries. So I disconnected the remote checked the wires for resistance and found the blue/yellow wire from pin #8
has a positive 12v charge once the wiring harness is reconnected to the button bank.
How did you resolve the voltage problem?
(Btw: I reused your photo to illustrate. thanks)
Sorry to everyone.
I did not have a chance to update this mod.
I run in to the same problem week after posting this. Apparently wiring for the buttons is under constant 12V for illumination purpose. When you press the button it is interrupt 12V (opposite how normal buttons work).
It should be easy fix. I will need to add a relay between button and garage opener. I will try get to it in the next week or two.
If anyone have any other suggestions on how to tackle this issue in some other way, please post here.
Apparently wiring for the buttons is under constant 12V for illumination purpose. ...
If anyone have any other suggestions on how to tackle this issue in some other way, please post here.
While a simple relay would work, a solid state solution would probably be better, since you'll drain some voltage with a relay solution. That would only be when the console is on (which itself is relayed to shut down about 90 secs after the key is out), but it would still be a draw. Plus you'd need a 100% duty cycle relay, which at 12V would be pretty beefy.
Also, why keep the battery? If it's getting 12V regularly, you could just power the fob off the existing voltage. Throw in a small regulator (or diodes), a medium capacitor for off times & button presses, and a transistor to invert/trigger the remote press. Just an idea...
It would also mean no need to replace the battery in the fob ever again. Put it in place and forget it. I've been tempted to do the same with mine, but lack the time right now. I have "fixed" the console buttons so they're press-able, I just don't have any wiring in place. Right now I have some stickers on them, for the seat eject and missiles.
Thank you Woody14619 for the ideas. Unfortunately, this is beyond my knowledge base & skill level. Have you tried this fix along with the relays? If so, do you have a parts list/schematic for this?
I haven't yet. I've been busy with another mod. Though really, a simple transistor would probably fix the problem here. I'm thinking a PNP type, with the N connected to the green wire above, the P minor going to another button, and the major P hitting the switch? It's late, and I haven't tested it, so... non sponsio securiatis!
The trouble with switches is they're intended to be open or closed with no guaranteed voltages. With a battery-operated remote - keeping all power and ground away from the device - the circuit is isolated so just about any transistor would work as long as the drive is correct. That's the dig.
I just ordered some slightly larger taps from Digikey (gel filled for corrosion resistance) that can just barely accommodate the measured wire insulation size coming off the button bank harness. I'll take a look at the voltage scheme and come up with suggestions.
Woody - do you know if garage door openers keep their key codes without a battery? The battery-replacement idea is nice but it wouldn't fly if your remote forgets the opener it's keyed to. Using this approach means the circuit is no longer isolated, however, making the switch replacement more complex.
Woody - do you know if garage door openers keep their key codes without a battery?
I can guarantee you it varies by manufacturer. That's why I suggested replacing the battery with a decent sized capacitor. Caps charge quick on power up, never need replacement, and hand hold charges for extended times between car power-ups.
The easy way to see if it work is to take out the battery in the remote and short the battery contacts to make sure it's discharged. Then wait a few minutes, put the battery back in and test it. If it still works, you don't need power to the remote except when it operates.
I don't know of any capacitors that can guarantee they'll hold the needed charge for a full day much less several days. I have some tiny crank-flashlights where the caps will sometimes keep charge for days while others are discharged in seconds. Self-discharge values might be pubplished for some parts but the hobbyist installer needs to make sure the new wiring doesn't add enough contaminants to mess that up. I like the thought of going batteryless.
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Though really, a simple transistor would probably fix the problem here. I'm thinking a PNP type, with the N connected to the green wire above, the P minor going to another button, and the major P hitting the switch? It's late, and I haven't tested it, so... non sponsio securiatis!
That's why I suggested replacing the battery with a decent sized capacitor. Caps charge quick on power up, never need replacement, and hand hold charges for extended times between car power-ups.
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