Button bank mod DIY (garage opener/boot release)

[High Side]

John H. I believe Charlie42 was next in line. He can have the single channel I said I wanted. I am good with pushing the button on my garage door opener. No need for me to do the mod.

[John_H]

Originally Posted by High Side

No need for me to do the mod.

...or at least not yet. Once I have this batch out, I'll get the makings for more. There's no commitment at this point so I'm happy to oblige anyone.

[cubefx]

John, how many single and double channel switch boards you are planning to make?
BTW pins from BMW harnesses (at least late 90's models) works pretty good with the smart button bank connector.

CUBE

[John_H]

I can do 1-4 channels to your liking. I'll make them all to order, complete with cable lengths to your needs since I'll be terminating both ends (really really small connectors). Two channels per cable, 4 cables, your call.

I tried some pins generously provided by another SCOA member and they were murder to work with (slightly too large for the Smart MQS connector). And since harnesses are a little hard to simply come by, the amp/tycoelectronics terminals I have for the Multi Quadlok System is form, fit, and function what's already in the Smart.

[shack01]

Just a little bump. What's the latest? TIA

tm

[John_H]

I'm getting first-article on the enclosure in a couple days - a neat little prototyping setup - and would expect the enclosures to be made within a week from the okay.

The raw boards have been out for fab since the 21st, due back late next week if things flow well.

I have the parts, wire, and a good crimp tool.

Spectrum is green.

[Gregc]

I've been following this thread the past couple of days. Now I'm interested in making a button blank functional. Would it be possible to wire the button bank to a homelink unit instead of a battery operated garage door opener? The homelink unit I bought is a 3 button type that is run off of 12v on the car.

[John_H]

The device I'm working on can support up to 4 channels of anything that's switched, as long as the current required isn't too high and even then I have options.

I can wire things up to be switched on when a button is pressed or when an LED is on or for those who want something fancy, a combination such as "pressing unlock while the seat heater LED is on."

Any of the switches or LEDs that are on the button bank can be used, even the backlight. The backlight-controlled switch can be on for all levels of brightness or can follow the brightness with the same pulse-width modulation.

For cars without heated seats, those buttons aren't hooked up. At all. A resistor would have to be soldered on the button bank to make the non-heated circuit board "see" the button.

You can think about things for a few weeks. If these work great and I make more, it's at least 2 weeks turnaround from "go."

There's also a thread on a homelink installed into the trim near the mirror.

[Gregc]

There's also a thread on a homelink installed into the trim near the mirror.[/QUOTE]

I did see this DIY, but I prefer using the button bank to activate the homelink system because I don't feel comforable cutting into the car's interior trim. I figure since people are having problems with a garage door opener that is battery operated, why not just use one that doesn't use a battery and use one that connects directly to th the vehicle's 12V power. Once I receive my homelink unit I'll have to figure out how to wire it in.

[John_H]

If you want to DIY instead of using my "switchboard" you need to know that most switches are pulled up to 12V until the button is pressed at which point the button is grounded. If the switches in the homelink have a similar configuration, it's a pretty reasonable "hack." The seat-heater buttons have a different configuration where the button is effectively pulled to ground until pressed at which point it's neatly 12V.

The trouble with the voltages - not the battery - are why the "switchboard" offering will wotk out well for most purposes. The output is a normally-open switch that can be soldered in parallel with an existing single-pole, normally open switch.