If you do switch the fuse you need to put a in-line fuse in the switched line. I assume you are jumping the fuse and running two wires to and from the switch. any power surge created by the switch should be protected by the in-line fuse.
The only thing I would want to know is, What else is on fuse 11 ?
abs, traction, esp, ba, ebd.... and whatever else.
the car isnt so great with it off, the only reason you would remove it is to get the wheels spinning if stuck in snow or to dyno it... the chassis of the smart needs the electronics to keep it inline... no matter how good of a driver you are your not going to catch it when you bounce sideways off the road, the wheelbase is just too short...
Ok so here is how I solved the "fuse 11" issue. I found an auxiliary fuse holder and a small switch. Installed the 25 amp fuse in the upper holder then hooked the switch onto the wire cumming out of holder. The other leg of the switch is then hooked into the fuse holder as pictured. This has worked for me for the last 1 1/2 months. Your on your own and do at your own risk! I only turn it on or off with the car turned off. Just reach up under dash to switch. There are 3 of us in our area that I have made this for.
..let me add:
your mileage may vary, parental guidance is advised, call before you dig, consult your doctor, action figures sold separately, see a qualified tax professional, mind the gap, may contain peanuts, no user serviceable parts inside, offer void in Nebraska, batteries not included....
Look through the "Snow" threads. I know Dan from SmartTune pulled his fuse for the esc, but I think I read about somebody putting a switch in the left hand cubby.
I remember reading that, but I also seem to recall from the service manual introduction bulletin (posted elsewhere, and a big thank-you to whomever posted it) that the ABS and a few other desirable systems are tied into the same fuse that powers the stability program system.
So did you try it yet? I'm curious. How did it work?
Haven't tried it yet. I want to be quintuple-sure that pulling that fuse will interrupt the traction control *only*, and not also kill the ABS or anything else before trying it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum-bling-B
BTW - what's the story behind the "The Rigger" name? Inquiring minds (or mind) want to know
It's my job... I'm a touring theatrical technician and rigger (in the vernacular, a "roadie"), currently working on a Broadway show touring North America. Riggers are the folks that are responsible for hanging all the lighting and sound for all the concerts you see in arenas and stadiums, and for flying sets/lights/sound/actors in theatrical productions.
Beats having a "real" job... The only bad point is I'm not at home very often (like I am this month) to drive my new Fortwo. (OTOH the mileage will be *very* low on it for a long time.)
abs, traction, esp, ba, ebd.... and whatever else.
[*shrug*]
Well then... So much for that idea. I was hoping there'd be a way to selectively kill the ESP without touching any of the other systems, without hard-hacking into the car's computer.
your mileage may vary, parental guidance is advised, call before you dig, consult your doctor, action figures sold separately, see a qualified tax professional, mind the gap, may contain peanuts, no user serviceable parts inside, offer void in Nebraska, batteries not included....
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