Hello everyone. Cisco and I ran the dyno on 2 cars. Mine which has Cisco's orig. version 1 cold air intake ( the one that drops down by the axle ), Cisco's remap, Doug Thorley's Header, and Doug Thorley's center exhaust. The second car that we ran was Jeremy Cox from our car club IE Smarties. For my car, I was just curious to run it with all the mods. After I ran my car, i was very disappointed because according to DTH I'm supposed to be getting aprox 10 more HP and with all the other mods I was expecting at least 20-25.... Maybe that's me being nieve or wishful thinking, but thats what I was hoping. My car got almost the exact same HP increase as Jeremy's ( by the way all of the above results are Jeremy's 08 Green Convertible ) but I did get about 12 more ft lbs of torque. I will post my results on here too so that you guys can see them. As for the spikes up and down, when a Dynojet dyno is hooked up to a car, your back wheels are on rollers, and they hook a single plug up to one of the hot wires leading to a coil pack. That wire reads the RPM. The Dyno's wheel is whats reading the HP and the torque and the spikes that you are seeing are because when you roll something at a certain speed, to get it to read a higher inertia the vehicle turning the roller has to "catch up" to the speed of the roller. As for why we did MPH and not RPM its for two reasons. The first reason is because after the speed govn. was removed we wanted to prove that the car is geared to go at speeds over 120. Keep in mind that this does not mean that your car can actually drive 120 as you will have wind pushing against you. None the less you are capable of going 120 no prob, if you didn't have any wind pushing against you. The second reason that we did MPH and not RPM is because when a Dyno jet is hooked to the hot wire on the car, it is reading something called "pulse per revolution". Those of you who have wired aftermarket tachs like autometer or levins know that on the back side of the guage it gives you switches to adjust the PPR that acommodate different cars. For instance a 4cyl motor runs 4ppr, a 6cyl runs 6ppr and 8cyl runs 8ppr. Well a Dyno Jet is meant to run on one of those three common pulse readings. A smart, being that it is a 3cyl actually runs on 1.5ppr ( not the 3ppr that you would think ) The dyno jet is not capable of acurrately reading the 1.5ppr. We tried even doing 6ppr and printing out the results but if you take those figures and divide them by 4 it totally wasnt meshing with what the tach was reading on both cars, and we didn't want to post something that wasnt true. So far we are the only ones out here dyno'ing these cars. Any of you who are questioning our results are more than welcome to take your car to a dyno and try it yourself. The local dyno jet to us ( in corona, ca ) charges $79.99 per run and up. The "and up" is because they charge you for various other readings, which personally I think is a rip, but oh well. For instance they charged me an addition $20 bux to put an scope in the exhuast to measure airfuel. It took them all of 2 seconds to put the probe in and hook up the extra wire. But now I know that at idle and top speed I'm reading about 13:1 on air fuel which is really good. Also one last note, on all of the dyno work that we did, it was done in manual, not automatic.
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