how did you remove your original resonator? thanks.
I unclipped whatever small rubber hose is under the clips that are around the OEM hose (the ones that look like wire ties with a plastic clip built in.) I used the "L" shaped torx (see #55 above for pic of the tool) to remove the bolt holding the resonator (the bolt you can see under the hose on the left side of the resonator; an 8mm socket for the hose clamp on the throttle body; a flat head screwdriver both for the hose clamp on the air box and to lift off the emissions/crankcase vent hose from the OEM pipe. I lifted this same vent hose off on it's other end and then took a regular pair of wire cutters and made a snip at 3 o'clock in the plastic ring (the one that connects the right side of the resonator to the bracket.) I put the flat blade screwdriver in the snip, turned it 90 degrees to crack open the plastic ring and then slipped off the resonator and lifted out the whole assembly.
Hope that helps. If not, tell me where I was confusing and I'll try to clarify.
The resonator pipe has changed a fair bit since its initial release, you can't cut those off and glue coins over the holes now. If you compare the old and new style resonator pipes you will see that the older style is easier to remove as it isn't as bulky.
Anyone buy, fitting and testing this pipe, please remember 2 things.
Upon fitting such a thing, your automatic reaction is to give the car more gas to see if there is an increase in performance and the change of engine tone. This will lower your MPG. It's only when you start driving as you normally would that you may start to see an increase in MPG.
Secondly, the ECU will take about 100 miles to adapt the settings for the new pipe so do a few tanks of gas before letting us know your MPGs.
__________________ www.evilution.co.uk - The home of 451 mods, fixes, ideas and information.
The resonator pipe has changed a fair bit since its initial release, you can't cut those off and glue coins over the holes now. If you compare the old and new style resonator pipes you will see that the older style is easier to remove as it isn't as bulky.
Interesting. I have an early 09: purchased Nov 28 '08 and it had a pretty easy to remove resonator. One of these days, I'm gonna be $.50 richer, know what I mean Vern?
In fact, if you compare the old and new style resonator pipes, smart themselves have attempted to smooth out one of the 90 degree bends so it seems they also recognised the poor design of the original shape that others have copied.
__________________ www.evilution.co.uk - The home of 451 mods, fixes, ideas and information.
Anyone buy, fitting and testing this pipe, please remember 2 things.
Secondly, the ECU will take about 100 miles to adapt the settings for the new pipe so do a few tanks of gas before letting us know your MPGs.
Could someone please help me understand this. I'm not an engineer or a mechanic so I'm asking out of ignorance and a sincere desire to better understand how things work. In my simplistic understanding, I thought the car's computer was getting continuous input from the various sensors so that it could continually adjust for optimum performance as these values changed. Apparently that's not how it works or it wouldn't take 100 miles to adapt to the new hose. What am I misunderstanding here?
I believe the answer to this is that the car has an adaptive "learning" algorithm, that it averages the various inputs. I suspect that is what folks are talking about when saying the car has to be "re-taught" post maintenance.
I believe the answer to this is that the car has an adaptive "learning" algorithm, that it averages the various inputs. I suspect that is what folks are talking about when saying the car has to be "re-taught" post maintenance.
Thanks, TMACK. I remember reading many discussions last year about the whether the transmission "learned" your driving habits and such. My take away from those discussions was that actually the driver learned how to operate the transmission and not the other way around.
In this instance, part of my confusion stems from the "fact" that you can, for example, run 87 octane fuel if you run out of premium, and your engine will adjust the ignition parameters to accommodate it. I understood that to happen immediately, not after 100 miles of averaging. I assumed it would do same sort of immediate adjusting to adapt to the increased air flow from the new pipe. I don't recall anyone saying you needed to wait for your smart to adapt to the increased flow when you switched to a K&N or BPP filter from the stock one. I guess I'm just trying to think of it in too simple terms and optimizing for best mpg takes more time.
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