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Old 10-05-2008, 08:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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How to Remove Front Strut Assy. - Video


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Old 10-05-2008, 08:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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very nice but a jack stand should definatly be used all you need is the car to come down on your foot
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Old 10-05-2008, 08:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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...very nice dude...
...a wrench turner???? is that the same as a ratchet?...J/K
...thanks for taking the time to video that procedure....stuff like that sets this site from the rest.


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Old 10-05-2008, 09:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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That stray cat is trained to do a "Lassie" and go for help.

Yeah, I type better than I speak.
I make up a lot of words when I can't think of the right one.
Did you know rice that needs to be stirred "spratzels"?
That plastic under tray/dust shield threw me too.
Pretty embarrassing.
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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its ok all in all good helpful video
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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...spratzels...now that's funny $h!t....

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Old 10-05-2008, 09:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Great Vid Randy...How'd you train the cat? Maybe next time we could get a mechanics eye view of the other side of the dust shield.
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Old 10-07-2008, 01:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Here's a question I got, may as well answer it to all:

I watched your video, was fine, BUt!! need to ask you for some pointer so I can do
1 all the sizes of the socket, and Torx used.
2 What tool was used on what part?
3 Seems that you did not have to undo brake line?
4 What can I use for the top of the strut? seems you made a tool up. It was a Torx 45 to turn,and some kind of socket welded to a bench grinder tool?

The video tells the sizes but I think I know them:
Sizes:
19 for wheels
13/16 strut shaft
T45 for strut shaft
snap-on swivel head ratchet handle (adjusts to miss headlight)
13/16 spark plug socket (remove rubber) for thrust bearing removal
17 or 11/16 for tie rod end
18 for ball joint and caliper bracket
short bungie to hold caliper
T30 for brake rotor
8mm for abs sensor
prybar for removing strut
Cars with sway bars need to remove the link.
I think that's T30 and 5/8 but you have to check that.
Cars with stock springs need a spring compressor.
Mine takes a 15/16 socket to tighten/loosen it.

clip the bungie to a hole in the inner fender.
hang the caliper from your bungie, don't push the pedal while its off.

I use a 13/16 for both nuts on the top of the strut.
I shortened the one I made into a tool to get the Torx bit down into the strut shaft while the nut is loosened.
I ground the bottom as far as it would go and relieved the top so the Torx would go down the center. You may be able to see the relief in the video if you look closely.
The part I welded on was an angle grinder disc removal tool. I bent it to clear stuff and it only needs to be a couple inches long as it hits the car body to hold it from turning. You don't need to kill the nut, snug is fine. If it were to loosen, it'd make a racket over bumps long before it fell off.

Hope that helps.
My springs don't need the sway bar, it just makes the bumps worse.
I took mine off - it saves weight and makes changing springs easier.
Developing my setup has taken a couple months and I have had both sides off more than 20 times each.
The first time, to do the H&Rs, I took the cowl off and all that stuff, never again.
I can have the whole strut off in the time it took to readjust the wipers or remove one swaybar link.
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thank You , randyzimmer!!!
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Randy, thanks for the great video. Gave me the confidence to try installing my Eiback springs this weekend. I got the fronts in on Sunday - I'll do the backs next weekend. The job wasn't hard at all - I used a spark plug wrench to hold the top nut and a 7mm allen wrench to turn the shaft so I never had to remove the front corner panels (although my hands look like they were in a fight with your cat!

The car looks much better with the front lower and seems more stable around corners. The ride quality is a bit harsher, but not much.

Thanks again!
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