So I have been eyeing for an exhaust since delivery in May. Never really had the courage to put down $350 to $499 for one. And today, I finally got my hands on a good deal.
This is the 4smartcar.com center tipped exhaust made by DTH. Brilliant piece. I have seen a lot of welds in the race industry (exhaust systems, roll cage, chassis etc). The welds on this exhaust are comparable.
I weighed the exhaust to be 9lbs though I suspect my bathroom scale might be off a little. So if someone else who ordered the exhaust can confirm the number when it arrives, I would appreciate. UPDATE: weight should be 10.5lbs, thanks tigerwong.
The stock is measured to be about 20lbs.
Two words to describe the sound: Voluptuous Grumble.
And how loud is it? Well, it will be unfair for me to comment since my ear drums are officially damaged by working too near to racecars and attending NIN concerts. But basically, here's the deciding factor:
If you have been to a AutoX, a lapping day, NASA or SCCA event, and you have no problems hanging out around the race or track cars. Then this exhaust will do just fine. Otherwise, stick to your stock.
There are a lot of DIYs out here already. So I will just post a few tips based on my experiences.
Tools I used:
3 significant installation tips:
- T-25 (for valence screws).
- Prying tool or a metal fork from your kitchen (for fastener on ends of valence).
- 10mm box wrench (in place of E12)
- 8mm box wrench (in place of E10)
- Flat head screw driver (to pry out the rubber mounts from the stock hangers)
- WD-40 (to ease the process of prying out the rubber mounts from the stock hangers)
- The exhaust is hold still by 5 points.
- 2 E12 flange bolts,
- 1 E10 bolt (they call this the 3rd bolt)
- 2 rubber mounts.
- To remove the stock exhaust, first remove the hangers from the rubber mounts first. Reason is you will have more space to work with later on. It’s ok for the exhaust to hang down. A very useful tip given to me from a fellow smartie.
- The other process which I find rather time consuming is installing the two supplied bolts and lining them up with the factory flange gasket. My advice is do not thread the bolts unless you know they are absolutely aligned to the threaded side. This will require that you adjust the exhaust back/fro and sideways. Patience is the key.
- Lastly, you don’t need the E12/E10 sockets or wrenches. The corresponding tool will be 10mm and 8mm wrenches or sockets. 6 pts (hex) preferred.
3 processes that I did not perform:
- Did not remove any heat shield bolts. The engine tray/trunk was shut.
- Did not disconnect battery.
- Did not remove the entire rear panel. Just the valence will do.