Installed Smartmadness MDC cruise control yesterday

[Gilbert's]

Originally Posted by kdfcogwheel

Gilbert's -- From your pic you installed the LED as in the Area 451 video depicts. Is this the MDC LED? The Area 451 LED was mounted on a very small PC Board, is color adjustable and just slipped in behind the legend, but not all of the way in. The MDC LED displays in three colors for programming and operational purposes, how does that show through in the speedo legend? I would like to take advantage of the "factory" legend rather than boring an ugly hole in the dash.

Yes, I follow 451's proccedure but Again you need to drill on the side of white plastic to give way to to the wire....

Also I change the led to brighter one and re solder...also bring it to the speedo legend..

[zenrider112]

I installed mine last Sunday. Had the following difficulty: The original plug to the accelerator was too loose to stay plugged in. I had to wedge a piece of high density foam between the plug and the LED mounted in the box. Subsequently I have added vinyl caulk to "glue" it in place.

This is a great modification!

I love it and the Booster works for me on two, maybe three if I want to be more agressive.

[John_H]

Gilbert - are you talking the Area451 LED? While the original instructions may have suggested adding the hole, the kit I've been offering since January is designed not to irreversibly alter the instrument cluster in any way. A small LED slips under the edge of the while light guides between the PC board and the legend. Look further through the thread and you'll find the information and an installation video provided by me.

[mvaldes]

Since he's also talking about the Sprint booster settings, I'm pretty sure it's the MDC unit (unless Area451 developed their "booster" and has been holding out on me.)

[Gilbert's]

Originally Posted by John_H

Gilbert - are you talking the Area451 LED? While the original instructions may have suggested adding the hole, the kit I've been offering since January is designed not to irreversibly alter the instrument cluster in any way. A small LED slips under the edge of the while light guides between the PC board and the legend. Look further through the thread and you'll find the information and an installation video provided by me.

Let me see I drilled a small hole on the side of the plastic to let the wire fit to the dash light and clip back tthe pcb board back the reason I did this co'z.... if you don't do this the push botton for the clock reset will not operable sometimes...

I change the led with brighter one's and push it all the way to the face plate for bright light. i'll take some pic's and post.

[John_H]

Originally Posted by Gilbert's

if you don't do this the push botton for the clock reset will not operable sometimes...

I change the led with brighter one's and push it all the way to the face plate for bright light. i'll take some pic's and post.

The problem with the clock reset (and even trip odometer reset) may occur with any disassembly and reassembly of the instrument cluster though the tiny PC board in the Area451 LED kit tends to exacerbate the possibility for the clock reset button's troubles. This is why "bumpons" are part of the Area451 LED kit. These small rubber stick-on pieces add a little more force to the structural elements in the instrument cluster housing that push the main board against the white plastic light pipes.

The MDC uses a tri-color LED; getting good substitutes is a bit difficult especially when the characteristics of the original LED aren't known. The Area451 LED brightness is a good match for the brightness of the other indicators. For those who want even more brightness, I have some parts that will make the indicator annoying at night. For the Area451 LED kits I supply there's no reason to move the LED closer to the front legend. The white tubes are designed to transfer most of the light from the LED to the front legend through reflection off the surfaces providing a rather "smooth" light at the surface. The reflection isn't perfect but does a swell job.

[Woody14619]

Originally Posted by zenrider112

I installed mine last Sunday. Had the following difficulty: The original plug to the accelerator was too loose to stay plugged in.

The install instructions should tell you to use one of the included zip-ties to zip the accelerator plug to the circuit board. There is a hole in the board just above the connector that you can run the zip-tie through. You then slip that up through the wires coming out the back of the black connector plug (originally going to the pedal) and zip it in place. Quick/simple solution, and won't come loose from vibration, since zip ties are designed to tighten if anything with vibration. And if you want to undo it, just clip the zip-tie and you're good.

Originally Posted by Gilbert's

I change the led with brighter one's and push it all the way to the face plate for bright light.

I did this too and found the best spot was about 1cm from the front. Too close, and you get a lopsided brightness for red and green. The LED is not quite as bright as the rest of the LEDs in the speedometer, but when pushed toward the front it's pretty close, and definitly usable even in direct daylight.

[Gilbert's]

Just remember guy's there is Factory cruise control is already there.... we just don't know were to tap.... at the PCB board there is a LED need to solder to imit light when cruise control activated..also the micro chip that they use is programable to activate control at the SAM and ECU I can't get the prints of wiring of these I am trying to get it from the dealer but no luck....

[John_H]

I'm certain you won't have luck. I'm confident no manufacturer will provide schematics for their instrument cluster electronics nor will they provide you with the ability to add the CAN codes needed to turn that LED on or off.

There is NO cruise control available for the Smart. They have the "do not install" component locations to be able to drive the indicator but nothing beyond that in functionality. I figure the "slip under the edge" tiny PC board I supply for the Area451 LED kit is about as close to original equipment placement as we can get without hacking into their board.

Reverse engineering the wiring would be simple. Changing their CPU wouldn't be.

[jrusmc]

Does the MDC unit disengage when you push the brake pedal. Thanks.