So to sum things up...Can you put LEDs in the front with OEM bulbs in the backand side and not have hyper flash?
If you are asking me
I didnt change any of my turn light
Because I dont want to do any other modification than replacing the bulb to LED.
It requires resistance or special relay to make LED turn light work well.
And resistance draws heat too.
Relay I think, is inside the SAM unit. I dont want any risk.
Actually, my main reason to install LED light is heat.
Thanks geosynch. That's probably the route I'll take. Yeah, LEDs would be cool. But, simple is usually better. I should've known better than to think there was a simple LED solution.
No, it's actually quite easy, the rear assembly is all plug n' play. The smartPitStop LEDs just plug in where the old incandescent ones were.
And plus they save you in the long run by being brighter, lasting longer, and giving slightly less load on the battery! (has to have just enough load as to not trip the hyper signals).
So to sum things up...Can you put LEDs in the front with OEM bulbs in the back and side and not have hyper flash?
Just a general question. I would be interested in putting LEDs in the front for the heat factor of the stock bulb if it was on all the time ( daytime running light use) But, I do not want hyper flash.
Just a general question. I would be interested in putting LEDs in the front for the heat factor of the stock bulb if it was on all the time ( daytime running light use) But, I do not want hyper flash.
Per side, if one of the signal bulbs is LED you will get "hyper flash" on that side. Therefore, a load resistor must be used for each signal light LED you use.
At the rear of the car the "white" reverse lights and high mount brake light do not flash, so there is no need to use a load resistor to prevent "hyper flash".
No, it's actually quite easy, the rear assembly is all plug n' play. The smartPitStop LEDs just plug in where the old incandescent ones were.
And plus they save you in the long run by being brighter, lasting longer, and giving slightly less load on the battery! (has to have just enough load as to not trip the hyper signals).
I'd go for it...
I'm curious about their tail light app. Has anybody tried them? From experience, I am leery about most LED units being brighter than incandescents. Most "dual filament replacement" LED units have offer distinction between normal mode and flashing mode. Also, the write up for this product doesn't mention anything about requiring load resistors. I've yet to find an LED product offered that has its own built-in resistance compensator.
I'm curious about their tail light app. Has anybody tried them? From experience, I am leery about most LED units being brighter than incandescents. Most "dual filament replacement" LED units have offer distinction between normal mode and flashing mode. Also, the write up for this product doesn't mention anything about requiring load resistors. I've yet to find an LED product offered that has its own built-in resistance compensator.
I Have the BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb installed in the front and rear of my smart.
2x 1157 amber (front), 2x 1157 red (rear), 2x 1156 cool white (reverse light), 2x 3910-x6 LED Festoon bulb (license lamps) and a WLED-xHP9-T Wedge Base Bulb for the (red) CHMSL. All from here: Super Bright LEDs - Store
I still needed the load resisters to get the turn signals to flash at a normal pace though since the flasher relay is part of the instrument cluster and not replaceable. But... the LED bulbs I installed are brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs.
I Have the BA15 18 High Power LED Tower bulb installed in the front and rear of my smart.
2x 1157 amber (front), 2x 1157 red (rear), 2x 1156 cool white (reverse light), 2x 3910-x6 LED Festoon bulb (license lamps) and a WLED-xHP9-T Wedge Base Bulb for the (red) CHMSL. All from here: Super Bright LEDs - Store
I still needed the load resisters to get the turn signals to flash at a normal pace though since the flasher relay is part of the instrument cluster and not replaceable. But... the LED bulbs I installed are brighter than the stock incandescent bulbs.
That's the way to go for brightness. Tower multi-element SMTs are much brighter than standard LED arrays. There is also a very noticeable difference between normal and flashing mode. There are also 1, 2 and 3 watt single luxeon LEDs that are extremely bright with a wide dispersion pattern and with heat sinks and will fit into places that big towers can't. Besides, automotive lighting, these mult-watt single LEDs are getting into bicycle and personal lighting. They irritate the automotive driver into noticing you.
Hey guys, be careful using the resistors to slow down the blinking. I put them in my customers car and they got so hot they melted the piece I screwed them to. i don't know any more details yet because his car is put away for the winter and we figured we will just mess with it in the spring. I bought a special flasher for led bulbs but havent had a chance to try it yet.
Originally Posted by lunarx
My 451 developed a fast click on left turn signal.
I noticed both the Left Front and Left Side turn signals were dead.
Bulbs were good.
It turns out there is a relay for the Front & Side turn signals.
Relays are located towards rear of the fuse box, under the dash.
Left Front/Side Relay was bad.
I just figured the next person with this problem might find this info helpful.
Now I have to try to buy a relay from a local auto parts store.
Yes, I could just go back to dealer under warranty, but it's way too much hassle to drop my car off, and leave it there for a day or two, for such a simple fix.
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