This is my method;
1 - From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this couple of times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the discs and pads in the next steps.
2 - Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot discs, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the discs. (Note: With some less aggressive street pads, you may need to do fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
3 - After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become stuck in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
4 - After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the disc face. The blue tint tells you the disc has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the disc face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the discs. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and disc life.
5 - After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well.
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