Can you lock a smart from outside with key in ignition?

[Stupidhead]

Dunno if anyone else considers this a problem or not, but here are my thoughts...

I use my Smart in my delivery job, so I often get out and back in within a minute or two. Turning the car off probably isn't the best option as I'd be doing that 50+ times a shift, but there doesn't seem to be any way to lock the car from the outside when a key is in the ignition.

In my old car I simply left the physical key in the ignition and the remote in my pocket would lock and unlock the doors same as always. With the Smart I thought I would just have to keep both keyfobs with me but this does not work.

If the key is in any position other than 0 the car ignores any signals from a remote, so either:
1. it is hardwired to do this somehow
2. the computer controls this

In the first (less likely) case it could be as simple as detaching a wire. In the second case it would be changing a setting or check function that currently isn't meant to be changed, which might be hard/impossible for an end user.

Getting a remote starter installed might bypass this problem since it could directly activate the locks and such, and is probably what I'll end up doing.

If anybody has any ideas about this, please share.

[forestacademy]

Hey Stupidhead Welcome to the Forum.

OK that just sounds wrong, but you asked for it by comming up with a stupid head name like that.


Keep that second key with you if you leave the first one in the ignition. Theire have been reports of folks who leave their keys in the ignition in their garages comming back to find the smart locked.

It does sound like it would be tough on the ignition but the car always seems to be smarter than we are. Im sure it is going to be a computer programing issue, and if someone comes up with a workaround, most likely it will scrwe up something else.

Your other problem is you can "lock" the drivers door using the key hole by the handle. It is a cable device. Turn the key it pulls on the cable to open the lock. But you cant "push" the cable to lock it. Sorry

[Stupidhead]

I decided I'm going to buy a cheapo keyless entry kit and hook it up only for the locking/unlocking functions. By using the wires from the center console lock and unlock buttons this should work fine.

It'll be an extra remote, but since the idea is to leave the keyfob in the car this should work well enough for me when I'm working.

[smartYsmileS]

~ I have tried to open the hatch while the car was running, no go for me yo

$.02

[SuperGeek]

Maybe the dealer has an option to program the ECU to not refuse the lock command while running?

[jwight]

Have not tested this; open driver's door, press the lock button on button bank, close driver's door - see if it's locked. Hope you have your spare key if it is.

[cubefx]

Originally Posted by smartYsmileS

~ I have tried to open the hatch while the car was running, no go for me yo

$.02

Hit the unlock button (under the radio) when your car is running and you will be able to open the hatch.


CUBE

[cubefx]

Originally Posted by Stupidhead

Dunno if anyone else considers this a problem or not, but here are my thoughts...

I use my Smart in my delivery job, so I often get out and back in within a minute or two. Turning the car off probably isn't the best option as I'd be doing that 50+ times a shift, but there doesn't seem to be any way to lock the car from the outside when a key is in the ignition.

In my old car I simply left the physical key in the ignition and the remote in my pocket would lock and unlock the doors same as always. With the Smart I thought I would just have to keep both keyfobs with me but this does not work.

If the key is in any position other than 0 the car ignores any signals from a remote, so either:
1. it is hardwired to do this somehow
2. the computer controls this

In the first (less likely) case it could be as simple as detaching a wire. In the second case it would be changing a setting or check function that currently isn't meant to be changed, which might be hard/impossible for an end user.

Getting a remote starter installed might bypass this problem since it could directly activate the locks and such, and is probably what I'll end up doing.

If anybody has any ideas about this, please share.

Just a suggestion,
May be you can install aftermarket keyless entry system (some basic ones I saw for $70 -$100 installed). This way you will have separate fob, just to lock and unlock the doors.


CUBE

[smartYsmileS]

Originally Posted by cubefx

Hit the unlock button (under the radio) when your car is running and you will be able to open the hatch.


CUBE

~ NEATO!! Thank you, I never even thought of that . . .

[PerryA]

Originally Posted by cubefx

Hit the unlock button (under the radio) when your car is running and you will be able to open the hatch.


CUBE

This is a little different from the original question, but since this issue of the hatch was raised, I have tried using the appropriate button on the key fob to pop the rear hatch while the key was in the ignition and the car was running. It didn't do anything and I had to get out and use the lever on the hatch to open the glass hatch. The circumstances were in the loading lane at the grocery store (they don't allow carts into their lot). The lock/unlock button on the dash will unlock the hatch, but it won't open it.

I haven't tried the lock or unlock buttons or the panic button on the key with it in the ignition in the on position. I suspect they are all disabled when the car is running. But, if the panic button works under those conditions, you might have an indication that the computer is controlling what works and what doesn't and that would support the reprogramming argument. Then it's a question of who and how. . .and which is more risky on the warranty - reprogramming or the constant restarting for the engine.