DIY Oil Change, not so simple.

[SuperGeek]

Originally Posted by smark

I worked from the side of car. No burns. 15 min tops. Use a jack handle as breaker bar. 3/4 wrench. Of the 2 oil pans, I have. One was too tall. Oil look new, after 10,000 miles.

You must drive long distances. Mine started to color after 3k miles (first 1500 miles, it was so light I couldn't see it on the stick), was medium dark around 6k when I changed it - one year old. Now 3 months later I've put on 1,500 miles and it's starting to color again.

I'm still going on mileage and time as guidance rather than color, but it's interesting to see.

[Kermit]

Originally Posted by smark

I worked from the side of car. No burns. 15 min tops. Use a jack handle as breaker bar. 3/4 wrench. Of the 2 oil pans, I have. One was too tall. Oil look new, after 10,000 miles.

My jack handle is the same but won't slide over the ratchet as it is too thick. As far as working from the side, a few times I get the right leverage and other times I don't. The times I don't - I have to go the rear of the car and that's when I get burnt.

As far as changing oil because it is "looking dirty". I would recommend those people NEVER EVER EVER buy a diesel. You will drive yourself insane.

[Old smart]

Originally Posted by Bum-bling-B

... As far as changing oil because it is "looking dirty". I would recommend those people NEVER EVER EVER buy a diesel. You will drive yourself insane.

If the oil looks dark and dirty, it is an indication that the oil is doing what it is supposed to - the detergents and dispersants are keeping the inevitable contaminants in suspension so they can pass through the filter instead of percipitating out as sludge.

BTW, I am the happy custodian of a '88, 450cc, Mitsubishi K2AS marine auxiliary diesel. Even with as few as 10 hours, the oil comes out like printer's ink.

[Kermit]

Originally Posted by Old smart

If the oil looks dark and dirty, it is an indication that the oil is doing what it is supposed to - the detergents and dispersants are keeping the inevitable contaminants in suspension so they can pass through the filter instead of percipitating out as sludge.

BTW, I am the happy custodian of a '88, 450cc, Mitsubishi K2AS marine auxiliary diesel. Even with as few as 10 hours, the oil comes out like printer's ink.

Thanks Old Smart. I should of elaborated instead of being sarcastic. BTW - I've got a Yanmar 3cyl diesel tractor. You've reminded me I do need to do an oil change. I also have a diesel Jetta. Thanks again for elaborating - dirty oil is not always bad oil. Most of the time it hasn't lost its viscosity.

[vpkb1998]

10K is too long for an oil change. I noticed a significant reduction in performance after 6K. I'm going to start changing the oil at least every 7K.

Only 3 quarts of oil came out of the car, and after refilling with 3.5 quarts, I had to add an 8th more to reach the fill line. Yes, I started the car after putting in the 3.5 quarts.

[SmartDigger]

try changing it with a hitch on the back. It will stop those burns.

[jetfuel]

Originally Posted by SmartDigger

try changing it with a hitch on the back. It will stop those burns.

...so.. you trade the burnt arms for head bumps....I see...

jetffuel

[Kermit]

Got the hitch....and no burns from that car.

[jwight]

I noticed a significant reduction in performance after 6K.

Oil performance - test results? Car performance - SOTP? Just looking for more info on this.

[Ron1]

Just a thought. Try using petroleum safe thread tape and you will not have to torque the plug so tight.