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Old 05-24-2009, 01:39 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1 View Post
Just a thought. Try using petroleum safe thread tape and you will not have to torque the plug so tight.
How so?

I think that may be a misunderstanding of the reason for a specific torque figure. You torque a bolt to stretch it. If it is not stretched enough it will not provide the necessary clamping force and may in fact come loose. If you tighten it too much you can stretch the bolt beyond its elastic limits which will both weaken it leading to possible breakage or bring it to a point where it will not relax to it's previous state and the next time it will not only not be able to provide the necessary clamping force but may break.

There is also the matter of having enough force clamped to the sealing copper washer to prevent oil leakage.

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Old 05-24-2009, 03:07 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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You are not going to stretch a steel bolt in an aluminum thread. Period. And the copper washer is not a crush washer, so tightening the bolt is a matter of enough torque to seal and keep the bolt from loosening. I'm on my third oil change, and did not tighten it excessively at any time, yet have found it absurdly tight each time. Has to have something to do with expansion/contraction rates of the two metals. Oldsmart, wanna weigh in?
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:32 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godfather View Post
... Oldsmart, wanna weigh in?
I fully concur.

I took the opportunity to query smartUSA HQ about the jeezly tight drain plug (this during a series of emails concerning early oil changes at the VPCs), suggesting a real, soft crush washer might take a lot of strain off the aluminum threads and still give a good seal . That series was abruptly terminated over an issue other than the washer.

Even a Fibrax or Delrin washer would help.

I don't know why the plug seems to re-tighten, even when moderately snugged-up. I'm beginning to think that its protective plating might be involved in some bi-metallic corrosive process with the aluminum sump - not good!
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godfather View Post
You are not going to stretch a steel bolt in an aluminum thread. Period. And the copper washer is not a crush washer, so tightening the bolt is a matter of enough torque to seal and keep the bolt from loosening. I'm on my third oil change, and did not tighten it excessively at any time, yet have found it absurdly tight each time. Has to have something to do with expansion/contraction rates of the two metals. Oldsmart, wanna weigh in?

That bolt is tightened to 50 lb ft. It will stretch. Metal may be more elastic than you realize, and not all aluminum is as soft as you believe.

It does need clamping force to prevent leaking. It is also precisely that clamping force that keeps the bolt from loosening which was my point to begin with.

I don't think the bolt "re-tightens" but there could be some interaction between dissimilar metals. The copper washer may have something to do with it.
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Old 05-25-2009, 02:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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The first time removing the oil plug is tough. I have a 28 inch pull bar that did it with ease....also I did it first thing in the AM before it had run....thus no burns. Add a 'cup' style oil filter wrench and I move it back to the super easy category of car work!
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:22 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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oil and filter change

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and thought I start by asking about the filter change. Reading your posts on the oil change, that bit seems easy enough (noting hot exhaust) but how easy is it to get to the oil filter? I have to admit i havent got under my lady's for two yet but it needs a change so rather than pay over Ł100 quid for that i thought i'd do it myself.

What say you??

Mark
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:42 AM   #27 (permalink)
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If you look under the exhaust (silencer) at the rear of the engine, you will see the filter looking back at you. Very easy access. You will likely find the oil drain plug on the right side of the sump very tight though. Good stuff here: Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:30 AM   #28 (permalink)
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It is a common misconception that an oil's color is an indication of how "dirty" it is. This is not true. It is often a common tactic used at quick lubes and service centers; the technician pulls the dipstick and wipes it on a white shop cloth and shows the customer how "black and dirty" it is. Any oil will turn black after a short period of use. Some oils may stay "clean" looking longer than others, but eventually they all will turn black. This is perfectly normal.

When someone tells me how "clean" their oil is because they have pulled the dipstick and it looks clean I always tell them that it will eventually turn black. They also tell me when they pull the dipstick and it has becomes black and "dirty" it will require changing. That's about the time I will pull my dipstick in one of my trucks and show them how black and "dirty" the oil is. I will then produce my latest oil analysis test report that provides laboratory chemical and spectrographic test data confirming that the oil perfectly suitable for continued service.

In general, the color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability or whether or not the oil is suitable for continued use*. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles. It is the job of the filtration system to filter out the larger sized soot particles that can cause engine wear and the additive package of the oil to neutralize and hold in suspension the soot particles that are too small for the filter to trap and hold.

* Under certain conditions such fuel dilution, water contamination or glycol contamination, for example, the color can provide insight that something is mechanically wrong and in need of repair and/or additional analysis, however under normal operating conditions without mechanical problems present the black color which is commonly referred to as "dirty oil" in the vehicle servicing industry does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability.

The only way to accurately determine an oils lubricating value or contamination level is through (spectrographic) oil analysis. Oil analysis is common practice used regularly in commercial, industrial and fleet operations and can also be used for passenger cars, light trucks or any other application.

The useful life of an engine oil is dependent on several factors such as the quality of the oil, additive package blended in the oil and the TBN level of the oil (the ability of an oil to neutralize acidic by-products of combustion), type of fuel, equipment condition, type and operating environment of the equipment and the type of filtration.

The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient oil filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid abrasive contaminants held in suspension by the oil. It must be stated and understood with critical importance that there are wide variances in the quality of motor oils. Certain lower quality oils do not have quality base stock oils and additive packages to support long drain intervals while other higher quality oils can have significantly longer drain intervals. AMSOIL is engineered, specified and guaranteed for either 25, 000 miles/1-year or 35,000 miles/1-year, depending on the products used, in non commercial gas engine passenger cars or light trucks, without the need to perform oil analysis.

Also keep in mind that the micron rating of an engine oil filter means absolutely nothing unless the efficiency (particle capture percentage) of the filter is stated also. If a filter is stated to be a "10 micron filter" but the efficiency graph shows it only traps 5% of the 10 micron particles then it isn't doing much good at filtering out 10 micron particles.
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:45 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Are you using Blackstone (...and a TBN on your gasoline truck analysis)?
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:05 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old smart View Post
Here's the direct link on how to do an oil change on the Smart.

Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

Evilution site is great. I'll probably do the next oil change. I usually pay to have my vehicles done because they have that huge german engine cover and it's a real pain, but the Smart doesn't have that ridiculously large heavy metal engine cover. Looks easy enough so long as I can get that bolt loose.

Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

For those who still want to pay someone to do it. I negotiated with the place I had it done. They credited me the 1 1/2 quarts (since the price on the wall was for 5 quarts of synthetic oil) and I also had a coupon, so I got it for a reasonable price.

Last edited by Brabus; 06-04-2009 at 01:09 AM.
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