Quote:
Originally Posted by Krootie
Because my father was an auto mechanic from about 1920 to 1983. He would adjust the headlights by driving the car (with the headlights on) some unknown feet from a garage door. Then aim/adjust the headlights so many feet up from the ground.
Now who's going to fill in those 2 dimensions??
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[*raises hand*]
I will...
First you have to take some measurements of the car; specifically the distance from the center of the low beams out from the car's centerline and the distance *on level ground* from the center of the low-beam to the ground...
Park the car facing a light colored wall (white or neutral gray works best), with as close to 25' of space as you can muster lying between the wall and the front of the low-beam projector lens - you'll have to do a bit of guesstimating here because of the clear headlamp cover. Be sure you're parked *square* to the wall; any deviation will mess your aiming up.
Then, sighting through the rear window and front windshield, determine what spot on the wall corresponds with the centerline of the car. I like to use a laser pointer shooting through the car to spot it on the wall. Using something non-marring and removable like electrical tape, put a vertical line on the wall that corresponds to the centerline...
Now measure up from the ground and put up a horizontal tape line ~1.5" to 2" lower than the centerline measurement of the low-beams that you took earlier...
And finally, measuring out either side from the centerline, put up two tape marks that correspond to the measurement you took earlier of the distance from the car's centerline to the low-beam centerline.
Having done all that measuring and marking, you adjust the headlamps so that the top "break" in the brightest part of the projected light just kisses the horizontal tape mark. That'll put the brightest part of the projected light high enough to give you good road vision, but not so high that it blinds oncoming drivers. The point where the right-hand side of the light "kicks up" (to illuminate the road shoulder) should be right at the point where the horizontal lens center crosses the horizontal center. (I have no idea where the horizontal alignment adjustment on a fortwo is... Anyone?)
Once you've done the adjustments, remove your tape from the wall and go for a spin to see if your work needs any fine-tuning. I like to do the aiming adjustments with a full fuel tank and someone roughly my weight sitting in the driver's seat, so that any suspension compression is taken into account.
The attached diagram (if it comes through) should clarify this. If it's not here, it may be hiding in my gallery.
HTH, HAND, &c.