Heated mirrors stay on all the time!

[MECPofPA]

Heated Mirror Fix Step-by-Step Part 2 of 2

I found a quite suitable, (there's that word again) location for the switch in the left cubbyhole. I drilled an almost 1/2" hole approx. 2" DOWN from the TOP and 1" from the LEFT. This clears molding and everything in the back.

Now route the 3 wires from the back thru the hole here.....

By the way, if you need to use the switch's retaining ring, put it over the wires in the back before putting wires thru panel.
I was able to make the hole snug enough so I was able to screw the switch into the panel.

Connect the BLACK wire to EARTH, POWER wire from fuse-holder to POWER and the remaining other color wire going to the heated-mirrors to LOAD. Using electrical tape, insulate each terminal well.



Now stuff it into the cubblehole and you're DONE!

[p1nball]

CLASS ACT!!! WELL DONE!!! Thank You, True American Know How, At Work!!

[mvaldes]

Great contribution, thank you!

[JPaul]

Posts 140 & 141 have been copied in the FAQ/DIY sticky at the top of the "Maintenance" sub-forum. MECPofPA, hope you don't mind... Thank you much!

[CruisingAZ]

Thanks for the great photo "how to"!

[chieftmc]

Yes, thank you. Great job!!!

[MECPofPA]

You are all quite welcome.
The online editor initially dropped a paragraph from the very beginning of Step 1 of 2 and I have since re-added it and corrected numerious spelln gooofs.
When I have time, I'm going to find out what the OTHER white fuse holder is supplying. Any guesses? This is not the convertable version and I don't have heated-seats.
Before any other questions arive, and to go no further for discussion, the other connections I have used up between R1 & R9 are for a customized daytime-running-light module and aftermarket anti-theft/anti-carjacking security system.
Someone else out there, get creative and do the same.