I just got my Smart Cabrio (red, black cloth interior, heated seats, power steering) on Monday and had to drive it home 200 miles on interstates -- great start to the break-in.
I tried to vary the speed and not put my foot into it too much, but the whole break-in thing is so annoying. There were three times when in paddle-shift mode that I failed to upshift leaving a light (no clutch = no memory that I have to shift) and revved the engine faster than I would have liked. I've had a few situations where I had to get the speed up to 75-80mph for merging, changing lanes, etc. And I'm at about 400 miles.
The problem with break-in is that it's all so squishy and ill-defined -- especially when one has no tach. Sure, I know that I should not ring it out to redline over and over. But there's no hard and fast rules. What is a "moderate" speed? What do they mean by "cautiously"? How do I measure the RPMs when I have no tach? Is it catastrophic to approach red-line a few times during break-in (some people say that you should).
If one does not get the rods to stretch a bit with occasional revving during break-in, doesn't that just lead to a wear ring at the top of the cylinder that the piston ring impacts at higher RPMs (when the rods do stretch)?
These things have ECUs, drive-by-wire throttles, and the ECUs know how many miles are on the car. Why the heck don't they have a break-in mode pre-programmed into them if it's so critical? Or at least they could have warning message/sound if you were exceeding recommended break-in throttle settings, engine speed, etc.
Why the heck don't they have a break-in mode pre-programmed into them if it's so critical? Or at least they could have warning message/sound if you were exceeding recommended break-in throttle settings, engine speed, etc.
I believe either Porsche or BMW limits the RPM during the break-in period, incrementally allowing you to rev higher as you accumulate miles. I'm glad that I ordered the tach, since many times I was at a higher RPM than my "ears" told me I was.
personally, i don't think you have too much to worry about.
it's a very high-revving engine IMHO, so it's probably unlikely you were "redlining" it.
for break-in, without tach feedback, i think 10-20-30-40-50+ mph shifting is a good guide. shift to 2nd at 20, shift to 3rd at 30, 4th at 40, 5th above 50. this will vary depending upon existing conditions but at least it's something you can watch to confirm your listening for the shift points.
a few high-revs here and there aren't going to destroy anything IMHO. the more OCD among us may have a different viewpoint.
it's a car, not a million-dollar 23-jewel timepiece. the million already on the road have likely seen their fair share of regular abuse.
...it's a car, not a million-dollar 23-jewel timepiece...
If I remember, the book mostly says don't floor it.
I still don't (too often).
Have fun with your car, it probably will survive just fine.
Heck, with just two years of warranty, try to break it quicker!
You are going to find that the Owners Manual leaves a lot to be desired, and a lot out. Then, common sense and experience have to come into play.
Aside:
Bentley Publishing has information that the M-B/Suprex-powered W450 (Gen 1) and W452 (Roadster), and the Mitsubishi Colt-powered W454s (forfours)came with a M-B 225.1 spec break-in oil, to be run-in for between 10,000km and 20,000km, depending on engine. It is unknown what the W451s (Gen 2) are being delivered with, but strong speculation is a standard full-synthetic per 229.5.
Your dealer should have told you that you should ONLY be using the AUTOMATIC mode for the first 1000 miles? (this would automatically limit the revs?)
I also keep it in manual mode to prevent "lugging" the engine as I've heard this can do as much harm as over-revving. I did my best to keep the revs in the midrange for the first 1000 miles............then I floored it!
I don't have a tack either. I don't want one and feel I don't need one. The first week I had mt smart I feel like I almost "babied" her too much. The second week I actually started "pushing" her more and by the third week I'm zipping all over the place. The acceleration is smooth and faster. All of this in automatic mode. I haven't learned how the use the shifters yet. I would suggest to you to use the automatic mode for the first month and then use the paddles if you want. Just keep in mind that's it's new and it's going to take some getting used to. I was a nervous wreck when I first got mine. Just give it some time and I'm sure you'll be happy. Trust me it's worth it
You mentioned you were using your paddle shifters during your first 1000mi break in and are concerned about over reving the engine?
WHY?
Your dealer should have told you that you should ONLY be using the AUTOMATIC mode for the first 1000 miles? (this would automatically limit the revs?)
Aw, comeon. We don't have to do everything we are told....do we? Those of us with good ears for rpms and reasonable mechanical *gut feel* know that driving the smartie in the "out of the box" automatic mode would result in far more long term damage tothe engine than one or two redlines during the breakin period.
The shift curve is so flat that the engine lugging would be a much worse scenario to break-in than anything else.
I too forget to shift in the Smart when in manual mode, even though my Jeep is manual and I never seem to forget in that - must be the no clutch thing.....
Anyway... if the yellow triangle flashes on your dash and the motor goes 'rrr......rrr......rrr' and stutters you just bounced of the rev limiter
This is extremely easy to do in the first 3 gears :-) - I am all too aware of this.....
I am over 4000 miles so the break in is well and done
My Suzuki has a high rpm limit which in 1st and 2nd I have been known to hit more than once..... My Yamaha and Honda have them too.... (These are motorcycles)
Not that you should treat the rev limiter as a 'fail safe' but I do believe the rev limiter will help stop you from making the engine go BANG!!
I think that if anyone is actually going to use manual you should have the rev counter also.... all regular manual vehicles should have them as standard also.... they are very useful
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Those of us with good ears for rpms and reasonable mechanical *gut feel* know that driving the smartie in the "out of the box" automatic mode would result in far more long term damage tothe engine than one or two redlines during the breakin period. 
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