Plug Change

[Fredvon4]

Do not let your dealer charge you for dropping the motor to change your spark plugs when the time comes at 30,000 miles

I was able to remove and re install the center plug in less then 10 minutes including taking several photos (click for larger version)




First push DOWN on the "T" shaped release and remove the electrical connector from the COP assy




The using a 10MM open or boxed end wrench loosen (counter clockwise) the bolt on the right holding the COP to the cylinder head. Be careful to not drop the bolt as it is a bugger to find..(ask me how I know...grin)

The COP has a Long boot that is about 5.5" long below it attaching to the plug. Lift it up and as you remove it angle to your right and come up below the back lip of the engine compartment to the rear. It will not come out of the hole angled up and toward the front of the car.

Using a 3/8ths drive Locking ratchet, a 3 inch long 3/8ths drive extension and a 3/8ths drive 5/8ths PLUG socket with plug holding rubber insert break the torque counter clockwise.

I needed about another half turn loose to then remove the ratchet and finger loosen the plug all the way out of it's hole.

The plug, socket, and extension is removed the same up/right/and below rear lip route as the COP.

Two cautions inserting a Plug....

do NOT drop the plug/socket/and extension down in the hole...you will crush the electrode gap or break the ceramic insulator...most crush washer plugs are tightened 1/4 turn after bottoming

The COP boot is spring loaded. When you put the COP back on it will not want to seat and stay there... once in ...carefully insert the retaining bolt and get it started in it's hole a few turns...now push down the COP all the way over the plug and finger tighten the bolt with other hand. Using 10mm wrench snug up tight but do NOT crank down on it...this is a low torque 168 inch pound (14Ftlb) bolt and there is not real good room to use a torque wrench

[Fredvon4]

This is what my center plug looked like at 600 miles



click image for close up view

[jwight]

Thanks Fred - great info! I'm assuming the two other plugs are as easy to remove?

[Okie Boy]

Originally Posted by Fredvon4

This is what my center plug looked like at 600 miles



click image for close up view

Great work.

I havent seen anything in the required maintenance that a reasonably skilled do-it-your-selfer should not be able to do. Changing the brake fluid may be the most difficult service procedure.

The plug looks perfect.

Thanks

[xcrew229x]

Just for reference, what manufacturer/number is the plug?

[Old smart]

Originally Posted by Fredvon4

This is what my center plug looked like at 600 miles



click image for close up view

Fred,

The insulator looks like the engine is running a bit hot and lean. I would be happier to see that light brown deposit on the right of the nose be spread uniformly around the ceramic, but recognizing that the plug is "hot." Dang, but that is one long-reach plug! 'Course, this is an aluminum head.

Now, can you get to #1 and #3 also?

[saskdiesel]

Originally Posted by Old smart

Fred,

The insulator looks like the engine is running a bit hot and lean. I would be happier to see that light brown deposit on the right of the nose be spread uniformly around the ceramic, but recognizing that the plug is "hot." Dang, but that is one long-reach plug! 'Course, this is an aluminum head.

Now, can you get to #1 and #3 also?

That plug only has 600 miles!
It will still look new in a proper engine of any sort.

[Old smart]

No, real-time plug insulator deposit happens within a very short period of time.

[Fredvon4]

digital Photos and my poor white balance control do not translate well on a monitor... By eye, in bright sunlight, the plug has more carbon and burnt oil on it then I see on my other low mile motors

There was zero White / Grey ash any where in/on this plug

Denso XU22HDR9.... on insulator ceramic
1822A009 .... Mitsubishi Motor Part Number
A 132 159 00 03.... Smart Part Number ($19.99 each from my dealer)
Denso Japan EJ + + + + +..... around the base metal ring above washer

In my opinion the motor is running slightly rich...and like a few others noticed on the early oil change.....my factory oil had a rather strong gasoline smell even with less then 50 miles on the motor

All three are same basic location and access... I did the center because it seemed to be hardest from a visual and hand/fingers point of view..I think the outer two will be slightly easier

My intent was not to inspect the plug but to prove a theory I had from eyeball

My Master Tech claimed the motor had to be dropped because the COP and plugs were to long to come out with out damage...

I am betting in the few short weeks they have been in business he has not had to do any yet... thus I assume he was taught that BS by the training teams

I wonder how may other shop hour enhancing maintenance areas are taught the LONG way...

[wahi]

Good job, Fred! This goes into my smart folder, too!