Radio 10 security code?

[Fredvon4]

I had read on Brit sites about putting the radio 10 in a "safe" mode via menu or button combination...before removing the radio or disconnecting the battery. Seems that if power is lost, the radio thinks it was stolen and requires a "code" to (re) activate it.

Well... my radio 10 has a completely inop AM section with nothing but hash and scratch on any AM frequency. I wanted to pull the radio to see if the factory antenna connection was loose...

Looked all through the manual and found no warning about lost power, no security code, or any real worth while info... In fact as you all must know by now, it is a pretty pathetic radio by todays standards...but that is a different rant later...

I went ahead and removed the radio...found nothing wrong, examined every inch of the box, learned which connector has what wires and after about 10 minutes put it back in...

Fired up normally and did not ask for any code...FM and CD still work OK but AM still all Fraked up

BOTTOM LINE.... We did not get any anti theft feature.... either... You can remove battery or the radio and it does not care... BTW you do loose preset memory stuff

Curious how the Vistion radio 10 for USA is different from Vistion Radio 10 in the UK...

[Evilution]

I'm not aware of the UK 451 stereos having security codes either.

[timhood]

Hey, while you were checking out the back of the Radio 10, did you notice if it can handle more than two speakers?

[Evilution]

It has 4 outputs, 2 midrange and 2 tweeters.

[mdfortwoguy]

Hmm, how is the subwoofer driven on them? I assume it is reading line inputs from the midranges?

Is there an amplifier on the sub, or is it passive?

[JPaul]

Originally Posted by mdfortwoguy

Hmm, how is the subwoofer driven on them? I assume it is reading line inputs from the midranges?

Is there an amplifier on the sub, or is it passive?

Being somewhat cheap, it must be passive...

[Fredvon4]

Considering the small and warm box under the drivers seat (that I have not yet removed) I assume the mono woofer (looks very small) probably has a blocking cross over to accept only low frequency signal derived from the mid range source and I assume a small low watt buck amp... probably one IC in the 20~30 Watt range... can't really tell but looks like a power connection to it....

Will know more when I pull the seat to get access for some dynamat on front slope of engine compartment

[mdfortwoguy]

Hmm, I've heard mixed reviews on here.

What do you think - is it useful, or can it not even be felt/heard?

At any rate, I'm not a huge audiophile, but if it is terrible - at least the wiring is already there for an upgrade.

[JPaul]

Originally Posted by mdfortwoguy

Hmm, I've heard mixed reviews on here.

What do you think - is it useful, or can it not even be felt/heard?

At any rate, I'm not a huge audiophile, but if it is terrible - at least the wiring is already there for an upgrade.

First, it's a very subjective call. To me, it's adequate, if a bit "flattering" when coaxed by settings. It can be felt if one sets the bass at +5!
As an ex-broadcaster, I'd say it's OK, not more.
In DC, I listen to (iPhone/iPod mostly, and) WASH, PBS and WETA sometimes. If one is not extremely demanding, it'll do. Anyway, in a car, with the inherent road noises...

Sorry for digressing from the subject at hand: security code!

[Fredvon4]

Jpaul...no sweat with taking this thread all sorts of directions ...I was not asking a question... just posting an observation... I got a crap Radio 10 unit with inop AM section and was timid to remove and check it out because I falsely assumed there was the security code and safe mode issue.. considering how Kane responded, I guess the UK vistion also does not have a security feature... so maybe I was just cross dressing against the 450's Grundig system

Further off topic ...I tend to agree with JPauls assesment...although I am highly disappointed in the features and quality for a $350 upgrade... In general I think Fords radios suck but my base crap factory system in the 2005 F350 is light years ahead of this 2008 smart premium system and it only feeds 4 5" paper full range (yea right)speakers

My sound in the smart is annoyingly centered in the front for the dash with tweeters shoving more sound then the door speakers that I can shift left and right... I will be adding rear set in cargo area so I can shift the sound stage more to center of car instead of predominantly from behind the Rev Pod

The sub is only detectable to me on Bass +5 and fairly high volume setting and does not add much to the music quality experiance.... I think the cut off is too low and hey went for the "thump" versus a higher cut off that would have increased the acoustical effect for Baratone Sax and Bass guitar ranges... actually funny if you think about it...trying to get a thump sensation out of a very low watt and small coil sub...

Bottom, line... it is an OK system for talk radio and casual FM/CD music listening but if you have some tunes you like to let into your head and see/hear/feel the presence... it is real suckey

Plan of action... get Radio 10 fixed...I am one of those that prefers the factory look and tend to think most adaptations look cheesy or hacked in

Up grade factory speakers to higher quality component with properly thought out cross over cut off ranges

Add rear mids on either side of back hatch

Morph in a modest 6 to 8 inch sub under diver seat and probably small form factor 150W amp to drive it with custom cross over (this is simple math and the creation of Audio frequency filters is too easy... really... just a few resisters and capacitors of the correct values and configuration, in fact there are several web sites with good calculators .)

Also a good 7, 10, or 12 band equalizer with fade is fairly inexpensive and they are small enough to hide up in the dash behind the radio ...no need to have out front... usually I just fiddle with them until my car sounds good to me and leave alone for the rest of the time I own the car...