It got me to thinking about maybe buying one. They run about $40 or so and I do all of my own oil changes anyway. Not to mention this could be really handy for all of my other cars as well.
I've read some controversy that sediment could be left in oil pan by using this. I'm not so sure I agree, but anyone who has experience with these might be able to give some insight. I've even heard that MB service techs use these on some of their models and that some of their engine designs are built with this in mind.
After demonstrating the topside oil changer, he puts the car on a lift to change the filter??
Kind of defeats the purpose doesn't it? Maybe they did that for purposes of the video.
Quote:
smart is the easiest car I have ever had to change the oil in!
No need to jack it at all...
the filter and drain plug are located within very easy reach of the rear end without any special tools... OR A JACK...
Were you parked on a hill or have a lift kit on your smart? The last time I did my oil change at 10k I had to put it up on ramps. My torque wrench was getting about 1/4 turn on the ground and getting my filter wrench on the filter was nearly impossible. Granted I usually wouldn't have to break out the wrench for the filter, but this was in it's new all tight and heat seized glory. A real PITA if I didn't have the ramps.
I'm still considering it though, could be useful for radiator flushes, tranny fluid changes (rarely, but yes), among other things around the garage. I'm just wondering if there area any smart techs would promote or denounce this thing?
The Old 450's Needed the topside oil change, But the 451?
The Filter and drain plug are right next to eachother. And the drain plug has a filter that needs to be cleaned as well. Top side change wont make that happen
I have a similar-in-theory oil evacuator to change the oil in my sailboat's inboard engine. The “marinized” Mitsu K2AS industrial diesel does have a drain plug, but there is no room to get any sort of catch basin around the engine and into or out of its segregated engine bilge. Or a wrench for that matter. Evacuators are commonly used in the marine realm.
One benefit of using the evacuator is that the oil can be safely drawn when quite hot and fluid. A downside is that the final section of rigid polyethylene suction tubing is sold tightly rolled up to fit the carton, and it won’t completely straighten out – once the tube is inserted in the dipstick hole you don’t know if it is going to the bottom of the sump or off to the side. I have replaced the polyethylene on mine with a 12” length of stainless steel tube to make sure it goes straight to the bottom. It would have to be a bit longer than the dipstick for a smart.
Even though the evacuator lives in the garage, I change the smart’s oil from the bottom. Short “ramps” made up from 2”x10” (1-1/2” thick) make an easy job easier – more clearance under the muffler and more room for the plug ratchet wrench (an extra click-or-two of swing is helpful, as is a 12-point socket vs. a 6-pointer). I do use the evacuator on the heavy home generator and it would be similarly handy if I had a power lawnmower.
Word of caution: Ensure that you have pulled a sufficient vacuum in the receptical for the entire job before releasing the pinch clip. If you try to pump air out of a partially filled receptical for more vaccum, used oil will flood the vacuum pump and fly everywhere.
Last edited by Old smart; 09-24-2009 at 06:50 AM.
Reason: add caution
I have been using one that Consumer Reports rated best buy for about 5 years now. I use it on 3 tractors, generators, lawn mowers, 2 motorcycles, 3 out of 5 cars other than my Smart, which I have not changed yet.
Some cars have oil pickups or oil pan baffles that prevent the tube from reaching the bottom.
Works great with auto trans pan changes, on cars that allow the pickup to reach the bottom of the pan, works great on rear ends also. Always use this when oil or liquid is hot.
Most vehicles, if you try the drain plug , after evacuation, you get a tablespoon or less.
Rich
There were several bits of misinformation in that first video regarding the "topside oil changer" by bmpdesign.com.
I use a vacuum pump to remove the oil from my diesel boat engine since it has no drain plug. If an engine is designed to have the oil removed in this manner it may be OK but it is not possible to remove all the oil or all the residue that might collect or form. If an engine has a drain plug then that is the preferred method to drain oil.
The smart car is very easy to drain oil and remove and reinstall a filter. The excuse to vacuum the oil is not valid. You still need to get under the car to remove and install the filter. Also, removing and installing a drain plug is easier than doing the same for the filter.
5W-30 oil is not better for hot climates. A 0W-40 oil not only has a superior base oil and additive package, it also flows easier on startup in both cold and hot ambient temperatures. The inference that the 5W oil was better for the hot ambient temperatures is a serious misunderstanding not only of viscosity but also on how viscosity is measured for multigrade oil.
Regarding the filter - it is best to pre-fill the filter so that oil will flow sooner after the change. He did not do this.
Also, the filter gasket should be lubricated with fresh oil - he did not do that either. The mounting surface should be wiped clean.
In addition, he failed to tighten the filter to the recommended specifications. It is not good enough to just tighten a little by hand. Using a rubber glove it is possible to tighten it to the required torque (or number of specified turns) but it is simple and easier to do this by using a filter cap wrench. The cap wrench can be used to both loosen and tighten the filter.
As others have mentioned, this car is about the easiest car to change oil on that I have ever owned. However, it's a good idea to use a torque wrench to tighten the drain bolt.
I'm a certified master tech here in Ohio and f.rom a mechanics point of view these are a joke ..just another gimmic..will they work yes and no.They wont remove any sediment in the bottom of the pan..they dont get out ALL the oil which may not be a lot but it usually contains the above sediment mayby fine metal chips or casting chips if still new.And they dont remove the filter which is a must.I see some guys..not on these cars..change their oil and not the filter..all I can ask is WHY?.Put in a magnetic drain plug..just in case...And crawl under it if possable to change the oil.Why actualy crawl under it when some people can just reach down you ask..Because it gives you a chance to give the car a once over and check out the exhaust,suspension..check for leaks etc..etc.Basicly its preventitive maintenence.
AND..do NOT tighten the filter with a wrench..never..ever! HAND TIGHTEN ONLY..If you hands are slipery then a pair of rubber gloves to aid in gripping are fine..but NO wrenches.And check to make sure the rubber "O" ring on the filter didnt stick to the block because the last guy over torqued it.Also it a good idea to either add oil to the filter or disable the ignition and just crank the motor without starting to prime the pump.Guys..Its not rocket science..its just an oil change.
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