What's the best replacement battery? - Page 2

Bum-bling-B · 02-05-2009, 06:41 AM

hey Geek - I'm a Optima owner in multiple other cars but not any in the Smarts yet. Does that count?

Next November I'll be getting one for each car - the last fews years I've been buying blems (cosmetically messed up) for a full $45-$55 a pop for the regular red top batteries and $80 for deep cycles. They've been great.

chieftmc · 02-05-2009, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bum-bling-B

hey Geek - I'm a Optima owner in multiple other cars but not any in the Smarts yet. Does that count?

Next November I'll be getting one for each car - the last fews years I've been buying blems (cosmetically messed up) for a full $45-$55 a pop for the regular red top batteries and $80 for deep cycles. They've been great.

Where are you finding 2nd's?

Bum-bling-B · 02-05-2009, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chieftmc

Where are you finding 2nd's?

A big automotive swap meet. Moultrie, GA. They have it Feb & Nov. The Orlando get together at the dealership conflicts with me going to the show this weekend.

chieftmc · 02-05-2009, 08:31 AM

Hell,

THAT would be a great 1400+ mile round trip run in my smart

jonnysan · 02-05-2009, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by curtis

I need a new one, what the best for the Smart?

Has been very very good. I got mine to use after 2 years of prototype fuel cell system abuse....Red top Optima. The when the system was decommissioned, I put one of them in my 96 Taurus and it stayed in there til I sold the car .....6 years total use. Never failed me and it did get some abuse in the Taurus as it had everything power you could get.
Son took the car up into the Adirondacks to do some hiking and just after leaving to come home (5 miles from a main road) the belt idler pulley bearing seized up, burning the belt in two...no PS, PB, alt all of that. He drove it the 5 miles to the main road and then another 10miles or so on the battery (so to speak) before the voltage dropped below minimum voltage to sustain the engine (around 10.5V I think). It was at nite, too, so I don't know how it sustained for that long, not being their myself.
So that was about as acid test as one could have. After that incident, I used the battery for another 2 years and sold the car with it in like a dummy. Should have kept it for the smartie......

Anyway....The Optima gel cell battery is TOP SHELF!

jonnysan · 02-05-2009, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chieftmc

The Optima 34R will be the "exact" replacement as the posts are the same orientation as the original.

I think I am going to spring for the Optima 34R this Summer or when my battery dies, which ever occurs first.

I had one incident with a dead battery so far (1 year old) and I think a better battery will help to eliminate quirky electronics "hiccups" that this car has from time to time.

chieftmc · 02-05-2009, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonnysan

I think I am going to spring for the Optima 34R this Summer or when my battery dies, which ever occurs first.

I had one incident with a dead battery so far (1 year old) and I think a better battery will help to eliminate quirky electronics "hiccups" that this car has from time to time.

johnnysan

Here's a link, if your interested:Optima Model 34R

24-42 · 02-05-2009, 12:54 PM

Optima Redtop 34/78, $139. at Sam's Club. 3 yr full replacement - 2 yr Pro-Rated.
1000 cr amps, 800 ccAmps.
Fits the 450 using the org, hold-down without mod.
10"-L 71/4"W 73/16"H
NO POSSIBLE BATTERY GASSING INSIDE CAR, Battery is COMPLETELY sealed

Posts are reversed. +cable is long enough. -cable moved to alternate stud provided at other end of batt box on floor for 'Reversed posts'.

Starter spins faster.

The first time the engine 'Clicks', GIVE UP ! There is not enough current to rotate the starter motor.

IMO: the stock battery does NOT have enough reserve for a really cold winter.

Ampere-hours (A·h) is the product of the time that a battery can deliver a certain amount of current (in hours) times that current (in amperes), for a particular discharge period. This is one indication of the total amount of charge a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage. This rating is rarely stated for automotive batteries.

Cranking amperes (CA), also sometimes referred to as marine cranking amperes (MCA), is the amount of current a battery can provide at 32 °F (0 °C). The rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).

Cold cranking amperes (CCA) is the amount of current a battery can provide at 0 °F (−18 °C). The rating is defined as the current a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12-volt battery). It is a more demanding test than those at higher temperatures.

Ask yourself, how close (at the present) is my battery to 100% at 70deg ?

I know of many repair shops in Detroit that sold new batteries with exchange in the winter and then sell the trade-in as a used battery the following summer.

Donald LaFavor