Why change engine and transmission oil soon

[Old smart]

Originally Posted by xcrew229x

Old smart, do you happen to know if Mitsubishi uses torque to yield head bolts?

I don't know what the specified torque is - I hope the dealer does when the time comes. I am presuming that it uses common steel studs and nuts, not bolts.

[Fredvon4]

Back when MitsPowered posted some interesting videos of the 4 cylinder version motor that we think is very similar to our 3Bxxx version I noted that they did use torque to yield single use head bolts on the 4Bxxx motor

I think it safe to assume that we also have the one shot head bolts...

That said... Many of my racing motorcycle all aluminum block/cylinder/heads assemblies, use a torque to yield bolt...We heat cycle the motor several times during break in...Before putting it "in service"....We break torque, and re-torque every external fastener including the one shot head bolts... I have been doing this 20+ years and not had a failure in a major assy fastener from this practice...

Now...exhaust manifold studs or bolts are a whole nuther subject... shrug n grin

[xcrew229x]

Hey Fred, check the back of the block, there's a boss with 3B21, and a serial number under it.

[crepatas]

Originally Posted by deltadart

Question. Is the Smarts transmission plug magnetized?

Nope, to me it looked like a normal bolt.

[bradgarbus]

I am working on getting more information on the engine oil intervals etc. I am going directly to Mitsubishi using a Japanese contact. I will let everyone know what I learn.

So far I can tell you in their cars they recommend changing the oil every 7500 miles no more than that. In heavy stop and go they informed me they suggest no more than 5000 miles at most.

I find it curious that the smart has one of their smallest engines yet it is suggested by smart to do a 10,000 mile oil change... (I smell something fishy)

My gut is telling me to do oil changes every 5000 at most on the smart.

I will share if I learn anything new. Translation from Japanese to English and back can be a challenge. Something just doesn't feel right about the intervals that smart suggests.

[EdwardDennis]

Changed the tranny oil today with Mobil synthetic 75W90. Mileage is about 800.

Noticed some very fine bits of metal in the drained fluid (in sunlight)**-nothing really remarkable or worrisome. Actually, it was consistent with other small trannie fluid changes I've done before ( BMW R1200C, for example). Fine particulate matter** consistent with normal break-in.

Anyway, for you folks doing this for the first time, make sure you buy an inexpensive hand pump. They're spring-loaded and screw right onto the gear oil bottles. Simply place the plastic hose into the fill-hole, pump, and move onto the next bottle. These pumps will last for years** and you can reverse the hose to evacuate hard-to service trannies [R1220C, for example :-)].

(I had read something on one of the overseas Smart sites that discussed the trannie fluid change and suggested snaking a hose via the engine compartment.... Too much unnecessary labor. Get a bottle pump.

[chieftmc]

Originally Posted by EdwardDennis

Changed the tranny oil today with Mobil synthetic 75W90. Mileage is about 800.

Noticed some very fine bits of metal in the drained fluid (in sunlight)**-nothing really remarkable or worrisome. Actually, it was consistent with other small trannie fluid changes I've done before ( BMW R1200C, for example). Fine particulate matter** consistent with normal break-in.

Anyway, for you folks doing this for the first time, make sure you buy an inexpensive hand pump. They're spring-loaded and screw right onto the gear oil bottles. Simply place the plastic hose into the fill-hole, pump, and move onto the next bottle. These pumps will last for years** and you can reverse the hose to evacuate hard-to service trannies [R1220C, for example :-)].

(I had read something on one of the overseas Smart sites that discussed the trannie fluid change and suggested snaking a hose via the engine compartment.... Too much unnecessary labor. Get a bottle pump.

Don't have my smart yet, BUT, can I assume from the tone of your post that the smart does NOT have a drain plug for the tranny?

[Fredvon4]

The Drain and Fill are on the built onto the tranny differential ....

Facing the rear, the plug on the lower right side of the diff is the drain... on the left and several inches higher is the fill plug....

make sure you are on level ground, as nose low, or left or right low, could cause you to over fill it

The fill plug is up high enough that a plastic bottle of gear libe can NOT be POURED in.... you have two choices:

The inexpensive pump mentioned above.... or a 2.5' tube snaked down from inside the engine compartment

[funyboy]

I was going to say, I already had my oil changed but didn't do the Tranny, Is there a DIY somewhere for the ones of us that are more challenged. Would like to change it out this weekend. Thanks

[a2jack]

I somehow missed this thread, (this site is moving so fast now), but I made a post up in Gen Dis of what I perceive as a break-down failure of the oil filter at around 8k miles.

Like Bradgarbus I now suspect something very fishy here.
I also agree it's all built around the "24k and out " warranty.

A2Jack