as with any car. you need to break it in. after the break in period you are supposed to change the oil. most break ins are 500 miles. do you know what happens during this?
ill explain.
the motor is honed at the factory. the pistons are installed with new fine edge rings. rings naturally wear out. where does the metal go? into the oil. because the cylinder wals are honed that leaves a rough wall to seat the rings with. improper break in. and you will notice that after about 10000 miles or so you will begin to burn oil. happens alot. if done right. you should break in your motor and change the oil to remove the metal that wore off the rings.
yes. however, that is the old school. this is the new school. perhaps in American cars that all still applies, but not in the cars i buy. i'm looking at my service manual on my S5. first oil change is 5k. second oil change is 15k. it's a 354hp V8. it certainly won't hurt to change the oil at 500 miles or 1000, but it's certainly not required or even recommended by the manufacturer. new processes and materials.
Clearly some of these guys don't wrench or race. I hope they take your advice and/or search it out (GOOGLE), if they doubt you.
I've dumped the oil on all my New Cars (MINI-LOTUS- All Of 'Em) and ALL my rebuilds prior to 500 miles. It's really cheap insurance, and insures longevity where you could have major problems. I was amazed what came out of a recent rebuild after a VERY SHORT BREAK IN. Just pour out what's in the filter into a glass bottle, and then thank these guys.
I purchased a new vehicle in January 2007 and was told the only oil changes I needed to be concerned with was the regular maintainance, no special break-in changes were required on my Jeep
Why is it needed to change the oil within the 1st 100 miles vs 3K?
Way back when, cars shipped with "break in oil" that had to be changed withing the first couple hundred miles.
With most of todays's new cars, that is no longer the case. Check the owner's manual, but you probably won't need to change the oil until the recommended 5,000, 7,000 or 10,000 depending on what the manual says.
Well, it can't hurt. I for one am going to take this advice and save some engine wear. Also one should remember to keep ones speed down during the break in period.
A lot of German and Brit web site posting about how the MB sourced Smart Gen 1 and Gen 2 motors were needing rebuilds in the 60,000 to 80,000 mile range... hummmm
This will be a Mitsubishi all aluminum motor... at assembly it was run briefly on a motor test stand to pre set/bed the cams, checks the cam to lifter clearance, and function check the variable valve timing and do a re-torque...
This run in was NOT enough time or cold/hot/cold cycles to properly seat/bed all the bearings. It was NOT enough time cold/hot/cold cycles to mate the piston rings in the cylinder bores.
As these events are happening during your break in period... the oil is getting contaminated with many different metal shavings and any grit left in the metal pores from machine or honing processes...
I will be dumping the factory full synthetic oil as soon as I get home and putting in pure single weight dino oil for my personal break in procedure... there after I will be using Castrol syntech in the correct weight... I expect to use zero oil between changes and I most likely will create a motor that can withstand increased HP modifications and still last in the 250,000 to 350,000 like the majority of motors I have owned on last 35 years...
In my experiance... those who get new car motors and drive it like they stole it tend to be the same folks who complain about high oil use between changes... Some where between my overly anal approach, and the flog it till it breaks crowd, is a reasonable middle ground... your ride...you decide
A lot of German and Brit web site posting about how the MB sourced Smart Gen 1 and Gen 2 motors were needing rebuilds in the 60,000 to 80,000 mile range... hummmm
This will be a Mitsubishi all aluminum motor... at assembly it was run briefly on a motor test stand to pre set/bed the cams, checks the cam to lifter clearance, and function check the variable valve timing and do a re-torque...
This run in was NOT enough time or cold/hot/cold cycles to properly seat/bed all the bearings. It was NOT enough time cold/hot/cold cycles to mate the piston rings in the cylinder bores.
As these events are happening during your break in period... the oil is getting contaminated with many different metal shavings and any grit left in the metal pores from machine or honing processes...
I will be dumping the factory full synthetic oil as soon as I get home and putting in pure single weight dino oil for my personal break in procedure... there after I will be using Castrol syntech in the correct weight... I expect to use zero oil between changes and I most likely will create a motor that can withstand increased HP modifications and still last in the 250,000 to 350,000 like the majority of motors I have owned on last 35 years...
In my experiance... those who get new car motors and drive it like they stole it tend to be the same folks who complain about high oil use between changes... Some where between my overly anal approach, and the flog it till it breaks crowd, is a reasonable middle ground... your ride...you decide
i think you said it all with your "overly anal approach". old school always has a hard time adapting to new school, no matter what the subject. the owners manual is there for a reason. since maintenance is not included in the sales price, it would seem to be in their best interest to recommend an oil change at 1000 miles or 1500 miles if it was in fact necessary. they don't and it's not. argue on.
You can bring a horse to water but you can't shoot him.
__________________________________________________ ____
If you think it's not cheap insurance, don't change your oil after break in.
If you think it isn't necessary during "break in" to get out the grit and metal shavings or heat cycle the block, don't do it.
If you think it's "old school", you probably should attended ASE School.
Instead of attacking others, why not spend your time educating yourself and helping others.
If you think the manufacturer would recommend it, you don't understand the auto business. The dealer will gladly fix your car and get the warrantee money or non warrantee money. They really don't care either way. Ask yourself: How can they sell you another car if yours lasts forever?
When I was a teen, I brought my car in for service at the dealer, and said, " My Clutch Smell Horrible" the service writer said "No it doesn't, that's the smell of money" Now you decide!
If you think that your motor is as good as an AMG Mercedes motor or a McLaren/Mercedes F1 car, no need to worry. However it's really a re-designed 660 itty bitty Mitsu MIVEC Motor, these motors have aluminum blocks with resin components (intake, valve covers etc..), They wick off heat but are also sensitive to warping, and distortion if overheated. The block should always be heat cycled when new. They get better and settle in after a good beak in and FRED, BUD and FISHR are right!
Fred is absolutely right! The motor should be run, shut down, run, varied etc.. these motors are only 3 cylinders and 61 cubic inches. THEY ONLY HOLD 3.5 quarts of oil INCLUDING the filter.
This isn't old school or new school, it's SMART school.
I don't understand why anyone would discourage a little extra cheap insurance and caution and do 1 EXTRA OIL CHANGE and break her in slow and easy. It's the foundation of your building!
'nuf said, You can be MAXWELL or not2, it's up to you. RISK/REWARD No brainer for me!
Either way, I hope you enjoy your car and best of luck.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
1976 Rover Mini
2003 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
2007 Mercedes-Benz E320 Bluetec (SOLD)
2009 smart Passion (Gone)
2011 smart Passion
Today
Linear Mode
