I've been searching around, so I have done my homework, but I'd like a specific answer.
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Does anyone have instructions for ELEGANTLY converting the 12v Powerport to CONSTANT LIVE? (instead of the current SWITCH-ON only mode)
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I'd like to plug my 1-amp battery float-charger in the powerport for those times when the car is going to sit for a week or two. I have a new Smart big battery and I'd like to take care of it. BTW: I've already wired the float-charger to the battery terminals, but would like to get away from extra wires around the battery, under the carpet, and on the floor. With the power-port, I can drape the charger cord across the steering wheel so as not to drive off with it connected. I'm 55 and have never made a mistake in my life, so you'll understand my wanting to maintain my spotless record. (did anyone read this far?)
Yes, I could crawl under there and figure something out, but I'm looking for the most elegant solution. By way of clarity, a few weeks ago I saw, at a car show, a Steeda Mustang with its hood proudly opened, showing a big, greasy orange wire stretched (tightly!) from the firewall, across the supercharger housing, turning downward at the hood latch and connecting to a pair of Pep Boys ah-OO-gah horns. Owner was very proud of his work. I wouldn't have been.
I know about the little clip-on widgets that fit the fusebox's empty ports and am willing to buy what's necessary, but I'm starting with this question BEFORE I go out in the shop and start disassembling/buying things.
ADiF. Many of us have wired an extra power plug set directly to the battery, through a proper fuse, of course.
With all the extra electronics in our car, lap top, GPS, Cell phone, the single cigar plug won't do.
The down side of direct wire is forgetting to turn off everything and coming back to a dead battery. A bonus though is you can trickle charge your battery through this direct connect. A2Jack
I'm not sure if it's elegant enough, but you can buy an outlet at RadioShack that already has an inline fuse. Drill a hole in the glove compartment, push the wires and fuse through. Then connect them to the battery below (the wires that come with the outlet are long enough to reach. When your trickle charger is connected, your glove compartment door will be open which should help you retain your perfect life record.
What's the mod with the audio jack? Looks like you split it with a jack in the glove box and a line running elsewhere to share the audio signal. . .where is elsewhere? Inquiring minds want to know.
What's the mod with the audio jack? Looks like you split it with a jack in the glove box and a line running elsewhere to share the audio signal. . .where is elsewhere? Inquiring minds want to know.
The cable from the AUX input runs to the "brain" of the Drive+Play unit mounted on the little "shelf" under the dash on the passenger side. That way I can use all my iPod functions with the radio 10. (I installed the control wheel on the dash just to the right of the steering wheel cubby and the screen inside the left cubby. Power is wired to the switched side of the fuse block.)
Now THERE's a good idea. Y'see, that's one big reason I asked the question here. I had an idea of exactly what I wanted to do & why, then someone pipes in with an alternative to consider... and a cool one too.
I don't use my 12v power-port for anything so there'll be no problems with leaving any current sapping devices plugged in as I am a purely analog driver... radio's only been on once and that was when I tried all systems before driving away at purchase. I would, however, like to make sure I never drive away with the charger hooked up, so something nice and VISIBLE is a plus.
What I was looking for was an elegant way to change my existing power-port to "constant-live" use, but the above idea certainly appeals to my sense of "a job done well." Even offered a parts source!
No matter which way I go (change Smart's power-port, or Valdes's glove compartment add-on), I intend to drape the incoming wire over the steering wheel, sort of like the multitude of big, honkin' red "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" things airplanes have all over them.
I'm not sure if it's elegant enough, but you can buy an outlet at RadioShack that already has an inline fuse. Drill a hole in the glove compartment, push the wires and fuse through. Then connect them to the battery below (the wires that come with the outlet are long enough to reach. When your trickle charger is connected, your glove compartment door will be open which should help you retain your perfect life record.
Did you get the right-angle audio jack at Radio Shack, also?
Did you get the right-angle audio jack at Radio Shack, also?
Yes, Radio Shack has the right angle jacks. If you drill a hole for the cable, your local hardware store will have a rubber grommet to to fit the hole.The grommet maybe overkill, but, with it the cable isn't rubbing on a potentially rough plastic edge.
Hmmm... I have not done it.... and I would have to reasearch it some more..
BUT.. the fuse on the SAM unit for the power outlet is fuse 14 (I think.. I have blown it before)... it is a 15amp fuse..
also.. along the side of the SAM unit there are some spare power ports (they can take a spade connector.. or a automotive fuse).. some are switched. some are unswitched...
Im thinking... pull the fuse for the power port .. use a meter to figure out what side of the fuse is connected to the power outlet.. then .. buy an inline fuse holder .. put spade connectors on both wires of the fuse holder...
one end to the unswitched outlet on the side of the SAM.. the other to the side of the fuse holder (for the power outlet) that goes to the outlet...
I would not want to know what would happen if you hooked up to the wrong side of that fuse though... feeding unswiched power into the switched side of the SAM could do harm....
but if you get it right.. it should work...
safer would be to cut the wire to the outlet and run it directly to the battery via a fuse of course...
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