Finally, an answer for extra keys (I hope)!

[idahosmart]

I tried the procedure from HowStuffWorks and it did not work for me. I turned the ignition on and off 8 times within 10 seconds, left it on, then pressed the remote on both key fobs. The bad key still blinks my lights 9 times whenever I press any of the remote buttons. I repeated the process 3 times, same results.

I believe the RFID is OK, as I can still start the car with that key if I unlock it with the good key first. I even had my good key 30+ feet away, as RFID signals only travel a few feet.

Tom

[rawlus®]

have you confirmed that the battery is indeed good and that it is placed correctly in the fob?

[Fredvon4]

the photos above were confusing me as to how they did the unlock button or the panic button... (only three buttons above)

so against better judgment I popped open my fob and took a peek inside... I am super hosed it it lost it's code now because the other key is 40 miles away

when we pop open the 451 fob...the battery is on one side and NOT in a holder that keeps contact while open

Our 451 fob circuit board is distinctly different and has 4 buttons


Edited in: Just went out side and tried all funtions...still working... whew!

[idahosmart]

Yes, I know the replacement battery is good, as I also tried a second brand-new battery. And yes, it is placed in the socket correctly.

Tom

[ASmartMan]

Tom

Seeing you remote does not work on you car I was wondering, does it makes any other Smart flash 9 times as well? (I wonder how many others Gray owners have tried their FOB on a different Smart).

Tom can you give us summary as to the failure of the key (thinking about the last time it worked and the first time it failed and ALL IMPORTANT, what happened in between

Yet your FOB seems to be talking to the car (those 9 flashes), just not opening it. I DO NOT know if any another Gray owner pushed their FOB would give your car the same 9 flashes.

There may be a Patton of failure here, and if we figure it is to we MAY reduce lost keys by 50% easly.

I've done extensive reading of the PDf and all associated documents over the last few days. down loaded the application Software for these chips, ETC.

I have been promised a dead SAM, first goal is to find and replace the VIN the second is to see if I can convert this SAM to my VIN with the applications KIT and getting the SAM to unlock the doors and kill the immobilizer.

So in summary, when I get that dead SAM, I will change the VIN to my car, BUT that will also mean (after vin change) comes the code change, I'm close here, give me 3-6 months and there will be NO gray owner who have to pay more the the cost of the key ( I believe in most cases the bad key is still good, they just need to new reprogrammed).

My goal is to get all this reprogram on my Pilot, and if I pull this off, I will loan out the equipment with a 1K deposit, when it returns the 1K is refunfed (if it works out you can use your own keys and just reprogram)

Well enough for 1 night, the option are endless and could be available in 1-6 months (I'm relying in other people ) Win?LOSE, It doesnt matter, we always learn in the end

ASM

[n-gen]

hi guys,

i'm working on a smart car too at the moment with the same key problem, we don't have a dealer in this country so the car has been sitting for about a year. i had a look at it today and used a diagnostic tool on the car.

thought it might help you a bit to figure this thing out.

Type - 452
PZ - 8
Year - 2001
Made in France
UK number plate
currently in pakistan.

problem - car will not start, when you hit the lock or unlock button on the key, the indicators flash 9 times. i read on another info page that it means the battery on the key is weak so i changed the battery and still have the same problem.

Error Code generated by the tool is - B1052 "recieved radio remote control key code is outside detection range".

I searched for this error code online and got another description of the error code which is "B1052 PASSENGER SEATBELT BUCKLE SWITCH CROSS LINK TO ANOTHER SENSOR",

i only have one key and the circuit looks similar to the pics posted on this page ... nothing different that i can see.

there is a key programmer which i'm looking into ... and if i do run into anything i'll post it here.

hope this helps,

good luck.

[JPaul]

Originally Posted by n-gen

[...]

Error Code generated by the tool is - B1052 "recieved radio remote control key code is outside detection range".[...]

In "our" 451, when the key's button(s) have been hit a certain amount of times (128 or 256) without actually "talking" to the ignition lock, it gets "out of range". We've been told that only a Dealership, with an Internet connection to Smartville, can actually revive the fob, once the rightful ownership has been deemed genuine.

[ASmartMan]

..n-gen

When you say "it won't start" are you saying the key won't start it? (by won't start I mean, the starter motor doesn't turn) or are you saying when you turn the key the starter motor runs yet the car doesn't start.

There are 2 things going on with the FOB, 1: it locks and unlocks the car and 2: it has a RFID chip in it allowing the starter motor to engauge

With my 06 450 I know if my door is ajar and I try to lock it, it will flash, I also know of another guy here in the US that has a 01 Smart, to clear this problem he disconnected the battery over night.

let us know.

ASM

ps. I too don't want to have my investment turn into a paper weight (no support for pre 08 smarts in the US) and is working on a solution (1 step forward 2 steps back) as I type, it is more convoluted than 1 would think (or I'm trying to over engineer things causing my stumbles)

Originally Posted by n-gen

hi guys,

i'm working on a smart car too at the moment with the same key problem, we don't have a dealer in this country so the car has been sitting for about a year. i had a look at it today and used a diagnostic tool on the car.

thought it might help you a bit to figure this thing out.

Type - 452
PZ - 8
Year - 2001
Made in France
UK number plate
currently in pakistan.

problem - car will not start, when you hit the lock or unlock button on the key, the indicators flash 9 times. i read on another info page that it means the battery on the key is weak so i changed the battery and still have the same problem.

Error Code generated by the tool is - B1052 "recieved radio remote control key code is outside detection range".

I searched for this error code online and got another description of the error code which is "B1052 PASSENGER SEATBELT BUCKLE SWITCH CROSS LINK TO ANOTHER SENSOR",

i only have one key and the circuit looks similar to the pics posted on this page ... nothing different that i can see.

there is a key programmer which i'm looking into ... and if i do run into anything i'll post it here.

hope this helps,

good luck.

[n-gen]

J.Paul -

i understand what you are trying to say... the scanner i have can re-program keys and has the capability to fix immobilizer issues of all sorts of american, japanese, european and even australian makes such as holden ... so why not the smart car. i have asked the manufacturer of the diagnostic scanner to come up with a solution and they are working on it. I guess it's a good way to protect the car from theft, but they should not charge so much just to sort this out.

ASM -

When I turn the key all i hear is 2 relay switches trying to do something. nothing else.

with my key, the central locking doesn't work and the RFID part doesn't work either. the indicators flash 9 times when the unlock key is pressed. that's it.

The battery of the car has been taken out numerous times for long periods of times ... maybe even weeks at a time but still doesn't resolve the problem.

I also thought of bypassing the immobilizer and supplying the right voltage to the correct relay on the SAM unit in the right place which would start the car but would not allow the gear shifting to work, coz that seems to be handled in the ECU. I did get the starter motor to crank the engine but did not start. Probably coz the gear was not in "N". then things were getting a bit too complicated so i left it there and started finding ways to sync the key.

anyways if i do come across anything else i'll keep you posted...

[JPaul]

'n-gen',
Since it looks like the way to unlock your key is blocked by too many technical hurdles, another way I see is to get the manufacturer to cooperate. Why don't you try to write to the plant in Hamback, and explain the situation. You may want to include copies of proof of legitimate ownership, and offer to give all documents you can get and pertaining to tracing down the vehicle from the plant to you.
Granted, it sounds complicated. But that's a path where you may have more success than decoding the security system.
What do you think?