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Old 01-18-2009, 12:22 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Location: in the garage
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Originally Posted by 24-42 View Post
I have no idea about the Mitsu engine. I own the 450 Mercedes and I think it doesn't.

If you recognize "bull!t" when you hear it,
Donald LaFavor
...Thanks Donald for an honest answer...

...I know for a fact that the ML class MB uses a monopole as a crank sensor to trigger the fuel pump on upon rotation...
...most cars will pressurize the system when first turned on and then off when it reaches operating pressure...with that said, my question in relation to this starting issue is that if the system is not to operating pressure and the key is moved from position 0 to position 2 or crank/start without the system at operating fuel pressure then there's not proper atomization of the fuel by the fuel injectors causing the engine to flood and fail to start after a few seconds of a running engine....

...jetfuel

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Old 01-18-2009, 12:51 PM   #32 (permalink)
 
Location: Stampede City
Drive: Honda S2000 supercharged
What about a battery warming jacket for those really cold days?

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Old 01-18-2009, 12:57 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
What about a battery warming jacket for those really cold days?
...the good ones are not cheap...the cheap ones are not good...


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Old 01-18-2009, 01:16 PM   #34 (permalink)
 
Location: Stampede City
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Hmmm, I used to use a cheap one many years ago. All it needs to do is to keep the chill out and maintain it near or above freezing. I wouldn't think of spending hundreds on a battery blanket. I recall the one I had was about 20 bucks. Seemed to do the job.

BTW, I use your avatar on other forums (since 2001). I made one that winks. If you want it, you're welcome to it.

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Old 01-18-2009, 03:20 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I haven't plugged in my cars for 10 years and I have not had one fail to start in over 12 years due to cold weather. I do replace batteries when they start having problems but on a new car, you shouldn't have battery issues. This last stretch of cold has lasted about a week and my old (1999) Expedition sat outside and hasn't been started in over a month. It fired right up at -27f. no heater, and a 4 year old battery.

I'd have the battery looked at under warranty.

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Old 01-18-2009, 03:28 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I'd have the battery looked at under warranty.
May do that since I agree with you - one year old battery should be able to keep up. While I had the cover off I checked all the connections - everything's tight so it may be a bad battery, just now showing up.

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Old 01-21-2009, 10:04 AM   #37 (permalink)
 
Location: texas
question please. i noticed the optima battery was a yellow and red top choice. and various model numbers......do you recall which battery should be purchased? thanks in advance!!

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Old 01-21-2009, 08:47 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Yellow top are deep cycle, red top are normal, and about 50 bucks cheaper. I wonder what the exact differences are... from what I understand, deep cycle batteries can handle more full discharges.



I found this PopMech article on the Optima batteries...


Optima And Exide Revolutionize The Car Battery - Popular Mechanics


“SpiralCell batteries deliver high power output that is both faster and longer than conventional batteries, resulting in greater cranking ability and less capacity reduction at high current loads. The sturdy SpiralCell construction minimizes the No. 1 cause of battery failure, plate shedding and positive grid disintegration,” says Hively.


This brings up two questions:

1) does anyone else's lights dim when the fan kicks on or at intervals of a few times a minute? Not much dimming, but my voltage drops from 14 to 13 for about 2 seconds and if I'm stopped at a light I can see the lights dim slightly.

2) If you said "yes" to #1, does/would an Optima provide better current flow for those load spikes?


Plus, a link to BatteryWeb's list of Optimas:

Optima Batteries - Optima Battery Catalog

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