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Old 10-15-2009, 04:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
Location: NJ
Drive: Passion Coupe
4000miles first problem

So got a 2009 (late 2008) Passion coupe. Got 4000miles on it now. Drive it 90miles everyday to work.

Today on my return 10minutes from the house doing 50miles on the left lane, the car suddenly lost power. The lights, radio and air were all running fine. The check engine light was solid, I slowly pulled to the shoulder, going over a lane.

The center counsel was showing 3 horizontal bars where the D appears for drive. It seems I lost transmission, I put it park and back nothing - 3 lines remain. The car was still running. Solid engine light.

Gave it another try and Drive came back, engine light remained solid. Drove back home.

Ran just fine but the engine light was still solid.

I turned the car off in the drive way and started it again, the engine light was gone.

I called smart roadside as I wanted it towed to the dealer, they said if the light is solid I am supposed to drive it to the dealer my self - no problem.

Got a appointment for tomorrow evening to drop it off for a checkup.

No worries as any repair will be covered under warranty.

Had the rear door replaced couple of weeks ago - it was leaking.

The fuel gauge still acts up, it goes to one less bar at fill-up and after 40miles or so it shows up as full and then at 80+ goes back to one less bar.

Didn't drive the car for a week or so last month and the air was really low in the tires and the light for low tire pressure came on and filled them up.

Other then that, its been great.

So anyone know what may be going on with the transmission?

regards,

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Old 10-15-2009, 05:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
Neonspinnazz's Avatar
 
Location: Ingleside, Illinois
Drive: 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT 1.8
Take it to the dealer, the 3 bars transmission problem is described here in http://www.evilution.co.uk/168

Quote:
This is the symbol that will displayed on the speedo if a shifting problem occurs.



Generally the car will not start and now gears can be selected although there have been cases where the car has driven fine despite the error showing.

If the car drives fine forwards and backwards, simply disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before reconnecting. This should clear the error from the car's memory.

What Can Cause It?

The smart gearbox relies on a lot of electronics to keep it working properly, it only takes one part to misbehave to call up an error code. Causes can be one or more of the following:
  • Faulty SE Drive
  • Stuck gears
  • Weak battery
  • Faulty gear motor
  • Faulty gear position sensor
  • Faulty clutch actuator
  • Chaffed wires

    Faulty SE Drive

    The gear change works on non contact hall effect sensors that are activated by a magnet
    (much like a reed switch but a chip format). Gear changes should be clean, smooth and full
    push or pull to the limit of the stick's travel before releasing. Hesitation during a gear change
    or not pushing/pulling the stick to the full limit can cause this error code to appear.

    It is unlikely that the magnet will lose its power but there have been cases where the
    internal PCB of the SE Drive falls down. This can put the hall effect sensors out of reach
    of the magnet causing the same problem. Usually this problem can also cause the
    ignition switch to move away from the barrel making the car impossible to start. Info.

    Stuck Gears

    Usually related to a faulty gear motor but can get stuck in their own right.
    Forcibly pushing the car back and forth usually rocks the gear box free.
    If this fixes it, it may be worth thinking about a gearbox oil change. Info.
    There may be a part in the gear box that isn't moving as well as
    it should and a fresh batch of oil can help get things moving again.

    Weak Battery

    Thanks to Pedro Caria for adding this info.

    It seems it is possible for the battery to be too weak to move the gear motor fully.
    As the gears attempt to move and fail, the error code is bought up.
    Get the battery tested and replace if it is faulty.

    Faulty Gear Motor

    The motor is the device that actually moves the gears in and out of position.
    It is a motor that can run in both directions to select a gear through a linkage of levers and a drum. Motors can burn out, the brushes can become damaged and the connections can become faulty.

    Unplugging the connector will allow you to view the connections and allow you to clean them.
    Removing the torx headed bolts will allow the motor to be removed and exchanged.

    Chaffed Wiring

    It is worth checking the wires to the plastic connector as in many cases the protective
    sheath is cut short so the internal wires are open to the elements. It has been known
    for the engine movement to gradually damage the separate wires causing one or
    more to ground out and therefore causing the motor to fail.

    This is becoming more and more common, it seems the wiring tends to chaff on the intercooler.

    Check picture below to see the placement of the motor.

    Faulty Gear Position Sensor

    The sensor feeds back the position of the gears to the ECU, this allows that ECU to control
    the gears via the motor mentioned above. If the sensor becomes faulty, the ECU has no
    idea what gear the car is in so calls up the error to save any damage or accidents.

    Sensors can become dirty as well as just break outright. Removing the two bolts located on
    either side will allow you to pull the sensor from the gearbox. Unplug the wiring connector
    from the sensor and pull the unit free of the car. Giving it a quick clean may help.

    It is worth checking the wires to the plastic connector as in many cases the protective
    sheath is cut short so the internal wires are open to the elements. It has been known
    for the engine movement to gradually damage the separate wires causing one or
    more to ground out and therefore causing the sensor to fail.

Last edited by Neonspinnazz; 10-15-2009 at 05:16 PM..

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Old 10-15-2009, 05:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: Tampa,FL
Drive: 06 f150 89 stang 08 smart
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if the car is driveable roadside will not tow you

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Old 10-15-2009, 07:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: New Paltz
Drive: Passion: Deep Black
Seems unlikely, but perhaps you knocked the ign key and turned the car off. It's quite possible, and this wouldn't be the first time. It's happened to me, but since I used to turn the car off on purpose while driving up to stop signs, I recognized the symptoms and quickly turned the car back on without having to pull over.

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Old 10-15-2009, 08:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Location: Ingleside, Illinois
Drive: 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT 1.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by unicycle View Post
Seems unlikely, but perhaps you knocked the ign key and turned the car off. It's quite possible, and this wouldn't be the first time. It's happened to me, but since I used to turn the car off on purpose while driving up to stop signs, I recognized the symptoms and quickly turned the car back on without having to pull over.
Plenty of members on here have gotten the:

---
---
---

And was able to drive home. Heck even evilution says that it still might drive.

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Old 10-16-2009, 05:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
Location: NJ
Drive: Passion Coupe
Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate it. At least I will be going to the dealer with some knowledge. Hopefully they will be able to figure out the exact problem.

As I said earlier the car was not shut off, it never died. It was still running when I pulled over. Once I got the gear back I was able to drive away.

Never turned it off - until I got to my driveway.

Also when it happened, I was not accelerating, I was doing between 40-50miles probably in 4th or 5th, In Drive mode, in a straight line and suddenly the car starting slowing

Thank you again.

Last edited by Cyberbug; 10-16-2009 at 05:53 AM..

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Old 10-16-2009, 07:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Location: Metro DC
Quote:
Originally Posted by unicycle View Post
Seems unlikely, but perhaps you knocked the ign key and turned the car off. It's quite possible, and this wouldn't be the first time. It's happened to me...
Me too! What a freak out... Now I'm used to looking at the key.

Also, hitting a shift paddle locking you into a gear. Another way to over-rev.

Just part of the car's ways.

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Old 10-19-2009, 06:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
Location: NJ
Drive: Passion Coupe
The car is back - They did not find any wrong per say.

They did find a transmission software upgrade so they did that.

They found the following codes: P1800 in N15/6, C1323 in ESP, what ever that means, Installed software, relearn clutches and trans. I am just typing from the paper they gave me after service.

During the test drive they found that the A/C wasn't working properly - which was a good thing , I never noticed it.

They found code B1002 in N23 - Control Unit defective.

So they replaced the AC control Unit.

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