It has been so long since I nitpicked a spdickey posting that I feel obliged to do it on this one (don't take it personal!)
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Originally Posted by spdickey
1. dealer doc fees - anywhere from $50 - $699 (mine to be about $400)
Got to pay the doc fees no matter what new car you buy. Guess you'd have to take delivery in a low cost state to prevent that. Since its the same no matter what you buy, its a draw.
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However, in some instances, these doc fees are really a hidden way to get additional margin on the car since smart USA won't let them add an 'additional dealer markup' item to the sticker and, again, in some instances, those fees are less on other cars (at the same dealership) that aren't in demand like the smart.
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2. financing fees - 5% - 7.5%
Again, this is the same no matter what car you buy. Another draw.
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True. However, some interesting cars are having a hard time selling in this market and some manufacturers are offering nice incentive financing that are unavailable when buying a smart.
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3. buy a spare wheel & tire - $200 - $250 (really no place to store a spare)
No need to buy one. If you get a flat, use the included pump and goop to get you to a tire dealer. Or wait for the free smart 1 tow truck.
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My R32 does not have a spare. Like the smart apparently, it has an electric pump and fix-a-flat goo. A tire had a slow leak and I took the car in to a tire shop to get them to look at it. Turns out that I had driven on it too long when it was low and the tire was damaged and they wouldn't remount the tire and let me go. I had to buy a new tire then and there from their crappy selection of in-stock tires. Also, they gave me total grief about not having a spare in the car and didn't believe me when I told them that it didn't come with one (until I pointed out the insert in the spare tire well with the pump, fix-a-flat, etc., all marked with VW logos).
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6. need to buy a torque wrench if you want to change your own oil - otherwise dealer wants $80 - (whew, what happened to $25 oil changes?)
You can get a $25 oil change from Jiffy Lube. But this happens only every 10,000 miles (about once a year). Forget the wrench!
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a. You should have a torque wrench no matter what car you buy
b. You should be running full synthetic oil and that means that your oil change will cost more than $25 at Jiffy Lube.
c. Unless you KNOW that the Jiffy Lube is a good one and won't drain your engine sump and then fill your gearbox with engine oil or won't forget to replace everything that was removed to get access to the oil filter back on right or won't not replace the oil filter, but tell you that you did, I recommend avoid quick lube shops. BTW, those aren't made up examples of mistakes made by quick lube shops; either I or someone I know had experienced each of them.
d. You should change the oil more frequently than 10k miles (maybe not the "too often" 3k miles, though). Particularly on a car with only a 2yr/24k warranty.
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12. Limited 24K or 24mo warranty
Keeps initial cost low. Extra time can be purchased from your smart dealer. $395 for one more year.
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You are able to purchase addition warranty, but it is the extended warranty variety with a $100 deductible.
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16. And all the negativism on this site. Seems I could get another car with a lot of dealer incentives thrown in for probably less money.
One word, trolls. Ignore them. Lots of us love our cars.
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Sorry, but the negativism isn't mostly from trolls. It is mostly from people who feel let down by smart.