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Old 10-07-2009, 07:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
Commander Cody's Avatar
 
Location: Awendaw SC & Swannanoa NC
Drive: Subie
Concerns of Cdr. Cody in RE: engine insulation

I've mentioned this before but it's gotton worse. After doing the Tail of the Dragon I'd thought I'd check my oil. Everything was fine except for the insulation.

Removing the metal plate that covers the engine and looking back where the alternator is I've noticed that the insulation has dropped down. The belt of the alternator has actually gobbled up some of the insulation making for a real rats nest in the engine compartment. Over to the left I notice the same thing is starting to happen near the airbox.

Duct tape failed because of the heat. I figure the only way to stop this is to drill down through the steel and install some sort of clip or something that will hold the insulation up.

Anyone elses thoughts and teachings on this would be helpful.

Gorilla Glue, double edged tape, wood scaffolding, a few bricks???

Cdr. Cody

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Old 10-07-2009, 08:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Terre Haute, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Cody View Post
I've mentioned this before but it's gotton worse. After doing the Tail of the Dragon I'd thought I'd check my oil. Everything was fine except for the insulation.

Removing the metal plate that covers the engine and looking back where the alternator is I've noticed that the insulation has dropped down. The belt of the alternator has actually gobbled up some of the insulation making for a real rats nest in the engine compartment. Over to the left I notice the same thing is starting to happen near the airbox.

Duct tape failed because of the heat. I figure the only way to stop this is to drill down through the steel and install some sort of clip or something that will hold the insulation up.

Anyone elses thoughts and teachings on this would be helpful.

Gorilla Glue, double edged tape, wood scaffolding, a few bricks???

Cdr. Cody
If duct tape can't fix it, you're a gonner !!

Really, seems like the only way to combat that problem would be attaching some small nuts and bolts with big fender washers to the lid



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Old 10-07-2009, 09:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Location: maplewood, nj
Squirting some high temperature epoxy under the remaining insulation might work.

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Old 10-07-2009, 09:50 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Location: Awendaw SC & Swannanoa NC
Drive: Subie
Let me clear up one thing. The FOAM insulation on the metal lid that is removed to access the engine is fine. no prob. It's looking further back that the carpet like insulation is starting to droop.

It's literally hanging down on the alternator. I'll need to see if I've got room to drill and use some sort of fastener.

Or find that high temp expoxy. Tho when I think about that and attaching it to that carpet like insulation I kind of wonder if that would have a greater possibility of failure.

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Old 10-07-2009, 11:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Location: O.C.
I believe that the original adhesive used to attach the Smart's engine bay insulation is the same black urethane adhesive used to attach windshields. I removed the felt insulation on my engine lid and replaced it with the best thermal shielding DEI makes (high temp tunnel shielding). It was easy to pull off the felt -- it was held in place by some beads of urethane adhesive. I cut off the beads of urethane from the engine lid with an X-acto blade, then I used the felt insulation as a pattern to cut the DEI heat shield to exact shape. I pre-formed the heat shield to the contours of the engine lid before pulling the protective plastic off the DEI's adhesive to stick it in place. It's been stuck in place for over 1000 miles and it shows no signs of wanting to come off. The engine lid now remains cool to the touch, even after extended driving.

If you can get some windshield urethane adhesive, you could use that to re-attach the felt insulation. If that felt is already too torn-up, you could cut away the problematical section of felt insulation and use some pieces of DEI or Thermo-Tec heat shielding in it's place. If you do this, just make sure that the metal is clean before sticking on the DEI or Thermo-Tec stuff.

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Old 10-07-2009, 05:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Location: SoCal
Drive: 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
There is a spray glue made by 3M that is widely used in the HVAC trade. It sprays out in a thin random-pattern somewhat like a spider web. It is used to adhere fiberglass insulation to the exterior and interior of air duct. It's very tacky right out of the can and works well.


Found it (wow, there are more than I remember)...

3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive: spray aerosol adhesives, adhesive aerosols, aerosol spray adhesives product information, 3M U.S.

Last edited by ssppxyz; 10-07-2009 at 06:04 PM..

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Old 10-08-2009, 06:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Location: Awendaw SC & Swannanoa NC
Drive: Subie
Got to thank everybody for their thoughts. My thinking now is to try the 3M stuff first and see how that does.

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Old 10-08-2009, 07:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Location: Pacific Northwest
Drive: 2008 smart Passion
If it's hanging down and getting caught in the alternator, why aren't you returning to the dealer?

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Old 10-08-2009, 08:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Location: City of Williamsburg, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssppxyz View Post
There is a spray glue made by 3M that is widely used in the HVAC trade. It sprays out in a thin random-pattern somewhat like a spider web. It is used to adhere fiberglass insulation to the exterior and interior of air duct. It's very tacky right out of the can and works well.


Found it (wow, there are more than I remember)...

3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive: spray aerosol adhesives, adhesive aerosols, aerosol spray adhesives product information, 3M U.S.
This what my “go-to” industrial supply place says about the various 3M spray adhesives (application, heat ranges, etc.): McMaster-Carr

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