do you know..? (car's longevity)

[NuBiker]

I drive the Smart like a bat out of h3ll. I NEVER go more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit, but I like the feeling of accelerating as quick as possible up to the speed limit.

[GiantKiller]

Originally Posted by NuBiker

I drive the Smart like a bat out of h3ll. I NEVER go more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit, but I like the feeling of accelerating as quick as possible up to the speed limit.

I tend to hammer mine too. But there is not much difference between 3/4 throttle and full. I'm 3/4 throttle most of the time. I love the way the car feels between 80mph and the 93mph that the speedo goes to. Some one posted that the ecu remap eliminates the limiter and then it would be 125mph I would think that must be redline.

[paroyboy]

Originally Posted by andy'smart

I didnt know that the geo was also a one letre. who made that for GM? was it also Mitsubishi?

The Geo Metro was a clone of the Suzuki Swift. My Metro and my Tracker (also Suzuki) were two of the best cars I've ever owned.

[SloPok]

Originally Posted by paroyboy

If you look on E-Bay at early Geo Metros which also had a one liter three cylinder, 100K miles seems on the low side. Not real familiar with Mitsubishi engines but I would think they're at least as good as a 15 year old Suzuki design! Also think it mostly depends on how its treated.

I think the Metro has a Mitsubishi engine. I was on a MB website and they had the engine code number listed. Metro and Colt are two cars that had the same engine.

[SuperGeek]

Originally Posted by paroyboy

The Geo Metro was a clone of the Suzuki Swift. My Metro and my Tracker (also Suzuki) were two of the best cars I've ever owned.

My mother in law has a 1992 Geo Metro - before Chevy took it over. I think it's got almost 300k miles on it, and depite being rearended early on, it's doing great. A few parts needed replacement, the usual brakes/tires/catalytic converter, but the engine's doing great after 17 years.


Andy:

The 1-2 shift is a big complaint of some people - most automatics have it too but not as bad. Don't try so hard to get off the line slow, babying the car -- once it's up to temperature (10 mins or so) you can punch it. Doing that in auto mode, you may want to throttle back just a bit prior to shift point in order to smooth it out, or just peg it and let the ECU figure it out. Oh, and I've gotten better MPGs by punching the throttle at a light, simply because I can get up to the magic 50mph faster. At 50mph, you have enough speed to maintain 5th gear up a hill. At 45mph the RPMs are too low, and downshifting to 4th gear to get up a hill will shave off your MPGs.

In manual mode, the engine will upshift @ redline. If you push the throttle past 3/4 to "kickdown" (you'll feel the pedal resist like you're pushing a button) then you're sending the ECU a command that says, "downshift, now, I gotta move." It'll back off only after it senses some combination of slowdown, time, and whatever it ate that morning. I think the + paddle will tell it to upshift sooner. It won't downshift to unsafe RPMs; it knows its limits and will just refuse to attempt it.

I would like to know the top ungoverned speed of this little thing... if at 90MPH it's only doing 4000 RPMs, can't it get to 115 or so? Not that I'd TRY driving a Wiffle Ball at 125, but... it'd be interesting info.

[Jacks19]

In 1985 (Before Geo Metro) it was called the Chevy Sprint. It was only offered in California the 1st year. Mine was a one liter three cylinder Suzuki engine. It was only offered in a 2 door. Mine was also a 5 speed manual transmission. While I sold mine in 1990 it had just over 100k miles on it and it still ran strong.

btw - The Smart does not have an automatic transmission at all. It is a Manual transmission with an automatic clutch.

[broberts]

I’m surprised no one has mentioned keeping an eye on the tachometer. If I’m in manual mode, I will shift at no higher than 4,000 RPM’s and once I have reached cruising speed, I try to keep the tac at or below 3500. I feel this will give lastability (I love that word! ) to the engine and give better MPG. The MPG works – I’m getting about 36 around town and 42 on the highway. ‘Have not been on a long Interstate trip yet but I estimate I will be able to get 45 – 50 at a constant 70 – 75 MPH on the Interstate. I feel it would be better (constant) with cruise control.

The tach watching has helped me (to get better MPG) in other cars from Cadillacs to super-charged, turbo, Buick Regal, Grand Suuper Sport (a GREAT little car!).

I never have purchased an extended warranty on ANY car but I do plan to do it on my smart. I have been using the same mechanic for over 20 years and he has already warned me not to bring him my smart for repairs. He is willing to accomplish the oil changes but nothing else. I have been quoted about $1,800.00 for the 100,000 mile warranty. This is from the dealer in Buckhead (Atlanta). Has anyone else had a quote?

Comment & question – I have notice if I accelerate FULL THROTTLE and then back-off before it shifts to second, it remains in first! Anyone else experienced that?

Bill

[gukin]

It's funny about how people worry about making their engines last forever. Go through the inexpensive cars in craigslist and you'll find that nearly ALL of them have shot transmissions. Engines are relatively easy to repair and rebuild, transmissions, once they die once, don't last very long.

Besides, as I tell most people, your car will last longer than you'll want to keep it.

And if that isn't good enough, check this out:
Craigslist Find of the Decade: 940,000 mile '95 Honda Civic - Autoblog

[andy'smart]

Originally Posted by paroyboy

The Geo Metro was a clone of the Suzuki Swift. My Metro and my Tracker (also Suzuki) were two of the best cars I've ever owned.

Is your metro green? I live in NoVa. but was in York on friday! i saw a green metro... perhaps? lol?

[Westfield 11]

Originally Posted by broberts

Comment & question – I have notice if I accelerate FULL THROTTLE and then back-off before it shifts to second, it remains in first! Anyone else experienced that? Bill

This myth has been debunked in many previous posts. You only confuse the shift computer by changing the throttle position just as it commits to making a shift. Just keep a constant throttle setting and let the software smooth out the shifts. It initially shifts rather abruptly due to new parts in the clutch and transmission mechinism, but as it gets a few miles it smooths out.

Most shift complaints are due to people thinking that they bought an automatic transmissioned car and not a manual one that just happens to have a "lazy persons mode" for occasional use. Hold a constant throttle setting and shift with the paddles letting the car match revs and clutch engagement and you will be much happier. No longer will it shift into 5th at 35 mph, nor will it leave you in between gears as you try to make a quick left turn in front of oncoming traffic. Shift yourself and you will always be in the correct gear no matter what the conditions.

BTW as the engine loosens up it will stop making that horrible lugging drone below 3000 RPM and it will run sweetly between 2000 and 3000 RPM where it will give the best economy. The new fuel injected engines are designed to be driven on the torque at lower revs and not the horsepower at higher revs, unlike older designs with carbs or simpler FI systems. Remember, the gas pedal is connected to a computer and not to the engine.....