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Old 11-09-2007, 04:06 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
 
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Hypermiling the smart: 60 to 100mpg?

If you are interested in wringing the highest number of miles out of each gallon of gas in your smart, check out this smart review & test drive report at CleanMPG by Wayne Gerdes.

Here's a great introduction to hypermiling by the man who coined the term. Some of the techniques are questionable safety-wise, but undoubtedly can reduce fuel usuage substantially.

Can any hypermilers out there explain in step-by-step detail exactly how the "Forced AutoStop" and "Pulse & Glide" techniques are best applied with the smart's clutchless transmission?


Last edited by Perscitus; 11-13-2007 at 10:20 AM. Reason: added a link
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice to see you join us. Please check previous threads as this subject is already covered and you are free to add to that thread.
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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if one turns the key off, engine off, going down a long 4 mile downhill stretch, does it hurt the engine or transmission or fuel pump? (infinity mpg without damage would be nice.


late edit: pulse and glide at
http://www.metrompg.com/posts/pulse-and-glide.htm

and forced autostop at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypermiler

Last edited by mr_Cash; 11-09-2007 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Question in this article?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Perscitus View Post
... check out this post at CleanMPG by Wayne Gerdes.
Question to the forum: Wayne states in this article "I would not expect any deals either as there is only a 7.5% markup over invoice with a 2.x% incentive (similar to but not the same as holdback). There is not much breathing room at that low a cost." He is talking about buying a smart. Can anyone please explain what he means? incentive? holdback? Thanks.

Last edited by BeSmart; 11-09-2007 at 06:10 PM. Reason: needs new thread? not sure how to.
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Old 11-09-2007, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Dealer holdback; most manufacturers do this by paying 3% (or close to that) of either the retail or invoice price to the dealer up front to cover costs of maintaining an inventory of cars. Most holdbacks are eaten up after a car sits at the dealership about 90 days, so you have more bargaining room if you buy when the holdback payments arrive (every quarter I think.) So, if you buy in the first few days of the quarter a dealer can theoretically make money even selling at invoice.

I'm not in the business so feel free to correct any errors above.

BTW, 7.5% markup seems like plenty of room to me; most deals should be as close to invoice as possible (2-3% above), although the smart will go at MSRP unless demand really falls off.
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Old 11-09-2007, 07:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Cash View Post
also, if one turns the key off, engine off, going down a long, say, 4 mile downhill stretch, does it hurt the engine or transmission or fuel pump, or anything to do this? (infinity mpg without damage would be nice.
[/URL]
Don't try this if you have the power assist. You will have difficulty steering.
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Old 11-09-2007, 07:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Not with electric power steering, though.
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Old 11-09-2007, 07:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not with electric power steering, though.
Either way, if the key is turned off, whether electric or belt powered , the steering system will get real stiff.
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