Oil change and tire rotation...

[rfernatt]

I was changing the oil and rotating the tires on the smart this past weekend. I didn't have any problems with the oil drain plug the first time I changed the oil, but this time it was a real pain to remove. I also noticed that sc Devon that changed the oil previously used two 'crush washers' on the drain plug instead of one. I don't know if that had something to do with the extreme tightness or not.

Does anyone know if there is some new procedure that uses two washers on the drain plug or was it just an oversight?

Not to be outdone, the lug nuts also did not want to turn loose. I think my torque wrench might need some calibration. I used 80 ft lbs when I tightened them on the last rotation, but they were a bear. I believe I picked up the 80 ft lb spec here on the forum, but does anyone have a different or updated spec for the smart lug nuts?

[jetfuel]

...oversight on two washers for sure...

...cal the torque wrench...

...did you check the threads on the wheel studs for any sign of corrosion?

jetfuel

[joey17]

did you hand tighten the lug nuts as far as you could the tighten them the first time or did you just use the wrench the whole time because that might cause crossthreading.

[SmartDigger]

I put a dab of never seize on mine the last time. AL and steal can form a very tight bond on there own.

[jetfuel]

..hey Digger..what are you using?

jetfuel

[piglith]

I put a dab of never seize on mine the last time. AL and steal can form a very tight bond on there own.

Arrg that's a good idea. Wish I would have done that this weekend with my oil change. OBTW. I recommend everyone change their gear box oil. I changed it over to Royal Purple. The old stuff you could see metal flake in the old oil. It also smelt funny. I thought of the washer fluid thread when I smelt it. Sweet smelling. That was at only 4500 miles.

[deltadart]

Originally Posted by piglith

Arrg that's a good idea. Wish I would have done that this weekend with my oil change. OBTW. I recommend everyone change their gear box oil. I changed it over to Royal Purple. The old stuff you could see metal flake in the old oil. It also smelt funny. I thought of the washer fluid thread when I smelt it. Sweet smelling. That was at only 4500 miles.

Gear box oil always has a smell to it and you always should use never seize on lug nuts.

[jwight]

I put a dab of never seize on mine the last time. AL and steal can form a very tight bond on there own.

Lots of pros and cons out there, most of them anecdotal. Here's some interesting info: What torque wrenches measure

jetfuel does this sort of stuff in the aviation world where mistakes are usually fatal - what's the A&P world say about using anti-seize compound?

[fortow]

Antiseize should never be used on fasteners that do not specify lubrication - antiseize is a lubricant.
Lug nuts and bolts should never have antiseize applied to their threads. If you do then the torque needs to be adjusted lower - and that is a guess for the most part but is probably at least by 20%. If you don't then there is a chance of over torquing and over stretching the fastener. That can lead to failure - it has happened.

If the lug bolts are clean and tightened to specs then they will not be difficult to remove. If you loosen and retighten at least once a year you will have no problems. Antiseize could and probably should be applied to the center ring and contact points of the wheel to the hub.

[Karl Roth]

Most wheel mounting specs are for clean & dry fasteners (new). Some will give a lubricated value normally lower. Anti seize qualifies as a lubricant. Most carmakers do not want to see anti seize on any wheel mounting surfaces.
Aluminum alloy wheels that many of us are running should be re torqued after a few heat cycles/ 100 miles of running. They do not have the elasticity of steel and are more sensitive to proper torque.
That is not a MB ploy to line the service departments pockets just a fact and something that most people never do.
karl