I know this may start some flames, but I wonder if there is an easy way to remove these darn paddles? They get in the way of the stalks and on the rare occasion that I use manual the stick is fine with me.
I drive by the scangauge, always trying to go higher and higher. While I know the fuel gauge indicators are not a true indicator of how far you can go, yesterday I made 102 miles on the first bar. I can't manually do what the computer can and living in a flat area I don't sense the computer is lugging the engine all that much. Since I brag about the mpg I want it to be all that is can be.
It's too bad that we weren't given a chance to have an extended test drive before the configuration: you'd have chosen a "pure" with all desirable options, but the three spokes sterring wheel and its paddles. That had been my idea at reservation time.
Possibly, find an exchange of steering wheel with a pure owner?
You'll get the most out of the engine (maybe not mileage) and the engine will be happiest if you choose shift points wherein the averge of the pre-shift and post-shift RPMs approximates 4,500 RPM (the maximum torque in our case).
You'll get the most out of the engine (maybe not mileage) and the engine will be happiest if you choose shift points wherein the averge of the pre-shift and post-shift RPMs approximates 4,500 RPM (the maximum torque in our case).
At what rpm max efficiency is obtained for this engine? Some would call it BSFC or brake specific fuel consumption at most efficient AOP (average operating point)?
At what rpm max efficiency is obtained for this engine? Some would call it BSFC or brake specific fuel consumption at most efficient AOP (average operating point)?
getting all tied up in words here.....
John
Dunno, but an engine's demonstration of it's potential to do "work" is the total Area Under the (torque) Curve, with the point of max torque its best output. The AUC is an irregular shaped area on a printout bounded by two ordinates representing torque at idle RPM and at maximum RPM, an abscissa across the bottom representing the range of RPM between the two ordinates, and enclosed across the top by the measured torque curve. The point of max torque is obviously where the engine is making the best use of the fuel/air being supplied to it. Whether it is the most economical compared to road speed, again, dunno. When I was involved in dyno-work we were working for the maximum AUC over the broadest range of RPM before fall-off on the high end. When dealing with a pair of sucking, whistling, twin-choke, side-draft Weber carburettors (40/45 DCOEs), fuel economy was not on anyone's mind!
During the first 1,000 miles, (only 100 left to go), I've been shifting at 4,000 RPM. I always drive much more by the tach than the speedo.
Ditto... Started out using automatic for the first 200 miles, but then didn't want the engine to "lug" yet. Now I try to keep the RPM between 2000-4000 during break in.. I've had to accelerate a couple times up to 5500 (oops!), but hopefully I haven't done any damage...
1st tank only got 34 mpg... scanngauge is saying i'm getting about 40 now. We'll see at next fill up...
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