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Old 04-19-2008, 01:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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4300+ miles at approx 3 months. No issues. Avergge 46 mpg on my commute. With Bay area gas going to $4/gal. my friends think I'm psychic.

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Old 04-19-2008, 01:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnah View Post
The manuel says to only change oil 10,000 miles not after the 1000 mile break in . Donna
Just under 3K

Following the factory advice will keep your warranty in effect. After two years and 24000 miles you are on your own. The weather here in the frozen north has given us a break the snows came off the Miata Oil changes for all the fun stuff including lil Booger. Sent the oil in for analysis asked for the additive pack as well will post that here for the totally wacked among us.
The total for this little escapade was $30.11 for the oil filter from the dealer $6.75 a Qt. for moble 1 0-40wt oil X4 a half for top ups still in the garage. The dealer wanted but did not have in stock the copper gasket $7.00 basic oil sampling $22.50 additive report $10.00 sample shipping $7.20 my time running around and doing this no charge. Way cheaper than therapy Two chilled just right Harpoon I.P.A.'s no charge again would have had that anyway Total $96.81 Dealer quote $80.00 see how clever I am.
You get the advantage of all this by simply wading through all these posts and get it for "free".
karl
Manuel speak Enlish?

Last edited by Karl Roth; 04-19-2008 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Hi mileage use,

Just turned 4,600 miles. Smart owned just over two months. build date 01-08

Shifter fixes and false alarm problems so far. These we consider to be minor.

As others have said, the car starts to get really nice around 1,500 miles.

A2Jack
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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break-in is abunchahooey

Modern engines do not need to "break-in". That ended in the 60's. They have chrome rings and finely honed and/or plated cylinders which do not need seating. It is a good idea to change the oil after the first 500 miles to get the scrapnel out of the crankcase but even that is really not necessary because that is what oil filters are for.
Run'em hard from the get-go and they will run great for a long,long time.
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Old 04-19-2008, 01:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Modern engines do not need to "break-in". That ended in the 60's.
I'm just gonna sit back and watch this...
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuelpincher View Post
Modern engines do not need to "break-in". That ended in the 60's. They have chrome rings and finely honed and/or plated cylinders which do not need seating. It is a good idea to change the oil after the first 500 miles to get the scrapnel out of the crankcase but even that is really not necessary because that is what oil filters are for.
Run'em hard from the get-go and they will run great for a long,long time.
Proper break in is still important. That said the amount of metal in the drain of my oil would not fill one 16th of a thimble and was all what looked to me like cylinder wall bits. Nothing magnetic in the entire lot.
You can skip the oil change for my money but you still need to follow the manufacturers instructions and take it easy for the first 1k miles If you can control yourself and drive it like an automatic for the first 1k miles it should treat you well for a long time.
karl

Last edited by Karl Roth; 04-19-2008 at 02:08 PM. Reason: senior moment
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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I'm over 1000 miles and changed the oil....no metal bits, no prob with driving - although I can't say as I like the auto feature much...
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuelpincher View Post
... It is a good idea to change the oil after the first 500 miles to get the scrapnel out of the crankcase but even that is really not necessary because that is what oil filters are for. ...
Yup, that's what filters are for, and where the stuff is trapped. But that metallic detritus reacts and forms acids which work to break down the oil itself. It doesn't make any difference where the stuff is in the engine (the crankcase, the oil galleries, the filter) it is still there in the closed system and reacting and why filters should be changed.
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Break-in

981 miles as of today milage so far in the mid 40's with air. Drive in auto mode all the time try to keep around 3,000 to 3,200 rpm two lane highway and interstate keep it around 70 mph on interstate. No jackrabbit starts but I am not timmid around traffic. I am a big guy 6'3" xxxL so car is pulling a good load around every day. I will change oil and filter this week around 1,000 miles old school. I really love this little car 93oct. coming close to $4.00 gal here.
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old smart View Post
Yup, that's what filters are for, and where the stuff is trapped. But that metallic detritus reacts and forms acids which work to break down the oil itself. It doesn't make any difference where the stuff is in the engine (the crankcase, the oil galleries, the filter) it is still there in the closed system and reacting and why filters should be changed.
The sulfur in the fuel was the biggest producer of sulfuric acid in the sump fuel injection has made that much less of an issue. will let you see the results of testing do not expect to see any fuel in there at all.
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