Screw these euro vendors!

[xcrew229x]

Sorry, Johnny, don't want to hijack your htread......

[iconpyro]

Let me know when you get these things all machined out and ready to sell. I am willing to buy a set to get my enkeis on. I dont mind driving my smart on the freeway, but it can get squirly when it gets windy or going anything above 70+.

[Smartbillet]

Originally Posted by xcrew229x

Only limitation I've found is installed bolt depth. If you screw one of the factory studs all the way in w/o the wheel, it hits the spindle about 12 oclock on rotation. Stock shank from ball face to end is 24.5 mm. Haven't dismounted a rotor to glance at the back.

I doubt that their is sufficient material thickness to support threading.

[Smartbillet]

Originally Posted by xcrew229x

Only limitation I've found is installed bolt depth. If you screw one of the factory studs all the way in w/o the wheel, it hits the spindle about 12 oclock on rotation. Stock shank from ball face to end is 24.5 mm. Haven't dismounted a rotor to glance at the back.

Originally Posted by iconpyro

Let me know when you get these things all machined out and ready to sell. I am willing to buy a set to get my enkeis on. I dont mind driving my smart on the freeway, but it can get squirly when it gets windy or going anything above 70+.

If you want the bigger and wider tires/rims because of stability, I think you'll be disappointed. Mine is as squirrely as stock in the wind, although the ride and cornering seem to have improved.
I think its the nature of the beast. This is not a highway cruiser.

[iconpyro]

Originally Posted by Smartbillet

If you want the bigger and wider tires/rims because of stability, I think you'll be disappointed. Mine is as squirrely as stock in the wind, although the ride and cornering seem to have improved.
I think its the nature of the beast. This is not a highway cruiser.

Smartbillet thanks for your input. I don't know if its squirly or maybe the freeways here. Every once in a while it will feel like the car is in a groove of the road that causes me to move the wheel slightly to get out, then I have to readjust.

[Frankenstein_Casanova]

Originally Posted by Smartbillet

I doubt that their is sufficient material thickness to support threading.

Negative, there's plenty.. (Trust me, we're making them like literally right now..) On my particular application the rears end up being 22.4mm thick, and the front are 25.6mm. (For my 'Merican Brothers, 25.4mm is an inch). 20-something-mm is plenty for cutting threads into. Hell, the Sperverbreitung (or whatever the heck those German ones are) set I saw were 15mm. Consider that the original threaded hubs are much thinner (although steel..) and that we're now distributing the wheel load across five lugs, one of which passes straight through the adapter and threads into the steel hub. It's all good. Get and use a torque wrench and you're peachy.

My adapters are odd thicknesses just because I'm using staggered wheels with funky offsets and trying to keep the lips as close to tucked as possible. After measuring a bunch of likely 16 and 17" wheels (and assuming that most people will use the same rim and tire combo on all four corners) it's looking like the production adapters will be right about 25mm front and rear. That's giving up about an inch of clearance between the inner rim edge and the strut, but should take most 7"-ish rims (with outside tire diameters close to the stock tires.. No Super Swampers kids..) without rubbing or poking out so far the car looks like a Lunar Rover. The biggest problem is that rims in this size have offsets ranging anywhere from low 30-something-mm's to mid 40-something-mm's. That's almost a half inch of difference, which can be significant when you're talking about suspension clearance.. It's a real PITA to design when you have a complete wild-card number to have to deal with.

Cheers,

Johnny

[bentoutofshape]

No, i'm not fred or who ever you guys might think i am. I can stop by a local smart car members house to verify my name. Kinda stupid though!
Putting spacers on your car is quite funny. Nothing like adding unsprung weight.
Think outside the box!!

[Smartbillet]

Originally Posted by Frankenstein_Casanova

Negative, there's plenty.. (Trust me, we're making them like literally right now..) On my particular application the rears end up being 22.4mm thick, and the front are 25.6mm. (For my 'Merican Brothers, 25.4mm is an inch). 20-something-mm is plenty for cutting threads into. Hell, the Sperverbreitung (or whatever the heck those German ones are) set I saw were 15mm. Consider that the original threaded hubs are much thinner (although steel..) and that we're now distributing the wheel load across five lugs, one of which passes straight through the adapter and threads into the steel hub. It's all good. Get and use a torque wrench and you're peachy.

My adapters are odd thicknesses just because I'm using staggered wheels with funky offsets and trying to keep the lips as close to tucked as possible. After measuring a bunch of likely 16 and 17" wheels (and assuming that most people will use the same rim and tire combo on all four corners) it's looking like the production adapters will be right about 25mm front and rear. That's giving up about an inch of clearance between the inner rim edge and the strut, but should take most 7"-ish rims (with outside tire diameters close to the stock tires.. No Super Swampers kids..) without rubbing or poking out so far the car looks like a Lunar Rover. The biggest problem is that rims in this size have offsets ranging anywhere from low 30-something-mm's to mid 40-something-mm's. That's almost a half inch of difference, which can be significant when you're talking about suspension clearance.. It's a real PITA to design when you have a complete wild-card number to have to deal with.

Cheers,

Johnny

You misunderstood my post. I was referring to someone who mentioned drilling and tapping the drums/rotors with a 5 on 112 bolt pattern.
I know that adaptors can be made, I made mine and have been driving the car for 2 weeks. They work fine.

[xcrew229x]

'Twas me, and I was referring to being careful with wheel bolt length.........

[Evilution]

drilling and tapping the drums/rotors with a 5 on 112 bolt pattern.

Ideal but not gonna work.

The hub is reinforced and thickened at the 3 points and nowhere else.
Drilling anywhere else on the hub wouldn't give enough thickness to safely retain a thread.