Success with Dump Valve on smart 450

[Evilution]

Hi Don.
you shouldn't believe everything you read

On closer inspection of the upper and lower breather I can now correct that information (i'll change the site info in a while).

If you disconnect the lower breather pipe, you MUST add a crank case breather filter to it, something like this.



Originally I decided that the smart engine used both pipes to vent gas, this turns out to be untrue. The lower pipe is used to draw filtered air into the crankcase to replace the air drawn out of the upper breather when the inlet manifold is in a vacuum state.
During boost the check valve closes and any vapour can escape from the lower breather pipe.

Therefore the lower pipe must be filtered otherwise it can draw dirty air into the crank case which will make the oil dirty quicker.

I like the mix up of the janspeed pipes and the Forge valve, it looks nice. Make sure that neither the end of the intercooler pipe or the stainless pipe is getting in the way of the 25mm T outlet or it can restrict the air to the DV.

I've just finished another product with Forge, a set of silicone IC pipes.
They are 4 ply unlike the Mocal ones which are quite badly layed up. I have already started working on a self cutting barbed DV outlet to use with these pipes so you can fit the DV if required.

[Don R]

Oh, now you tell me! I don’t believe everything I read but I thought I could trust you Kane. haha Just Kidding my friend.

I did notice my oil was dirtier this last change and I presume it came from what you described. I would think/hope any particles that got sucked in there would be filter out in the oil filter so I didn’t subject my baby to any injury. (what’s your opinion?)

Now, as far as adding that little filter on the end of the lower breather tube I’d find that to create another problem. Running the tube open (like I presently have it) there is often a small amount of oil dripping out at the end of a trip/day (more of the consistency of molasses… thick,dark and gooey ). That’s the stuff I’m glad (now) isn’t getting sucked into the IC system.

Again, it just doesn’t make sense to have this Hot Gooey $hit being pulled into the inter-COOLing system of our cars. It’s defeating the very principle of what the IC is suppose to be doing, by having those hot oil vapors condense and coat the whole inside of the IC… right!

So, If I just add that filter you suggested on the end it would surly get all gummed up with that muck in no time and create an even worse problem. If that tube gets clogged it will build back pressure into the crank case and we sure don’t want that to happen… do we!

I can understand and appreciate your advice Kane but I think it needs a little more thought as to what will work properly. Something that will filter air coming in but also lets the oil drip out and not clog the filter… humm.

[Evilution]

Well, really you are supposed to add an oil catch tank, not just leave the pipe open, that page always recommended fitting a catch tank.
A catch tank will have 2 ports, one for the breather to attach to, the other one for the filter. That way the oil condenses in the can and doesn't clog the filter.

As for just fitting a filter straight on, it isn't ideal but it will only drip from the lowest point so the rest of the filter will remain clear and will easily handle the air flow into that pipe.

Any crap sucked into the pipe will just suspend in the oil so after an oil change it will have been removed. Anything that went in will have been filtered, if it was small enough to pass through the filter it wouldn't affect the engine. The only problem is if you lived in a dusty/snady area, the oil filter may have become clogged enough to affect the oil pressure and bring the warning light on.

[micromachine]

OK - so I have an oil catch but no filter. Now it would seem that I need to add a filter to the process however I need a little more help understanding where it should go and what hose connects where. I ran the breather line from the TIK to one port on the can and then another hose from the other can port back to the TIK. The can is about 1/4 full after 3 - 3/12 weeks of driving. I know that it is doing it job. Where do I put the filter.



In this picture of my can the visible hose is going back to the TIK.





In this picture it shows the connection of the one hose in the front is going into the can and the black hose behind is going from the can back to the TIK.

Would the filter just be added into that line? Would I still leave that line connected to the TIK.

[micromachine]

Did a little hunting.

Could I add this crankcase breather into the line going from the catch tank to the TIK? It's normally used on Harley Davidson motorcycles. The inlets are 9mm so it would be a perfect fit.

[Evilution]

The way you have done it you don't need to add a filter, there is a perfectly good one in your airbox that filters the air in the TIK pipe therefore any air entering the catch tank is already filtered.

[micromachine]

Thanks

I don't know if it will be of any use but you can use the pictures on your site or I can send them to you. It's up to you.

[Evilution]

Cheers, I have saved the above ones for future use, if you have any more that you think might help
s a l es @ e v i l u t i o n . co . u k
(obviously without the spaces).

[micromachine]

Well after looking at all the junk building up in the catch tank I decided to stop the feed from the tank back to the TIK and add a filter. I felt that a littel filter would be better than sending any residual oily vapor back into the TIK. I chose to run the hose up into the engine bay and add the filter there. I was originally going to just put a filter on the tank where the hose connected but then I got to thinking it was going to get wet being that low to the ground. I found a K&N crankcase breather normally used for motorcycles that works great and does not have to be replaced, only cleaned. Cost was $20 for the filter.



The tank is 1/2 full after only 30 days. I can't believe this has been being fed back in with the original design.



This hose was being sent back to the TIK. Now it routes up into the engine bay.



Here is a shot of it being fed up in to the engine. It comes up right next to the mount for the oringinal airbox.



Here is a shot of the little filter. I tried to get a picture of the hose but none worked out. The hose is fed under the elbow connected the venom induction to the TIK. The filter slides onto the hose and I cinched it on with a cable tie until I can find a small clamp.



Job done! You can just see the new filter resting next to the venom. It does not move around. I believe this has to do with it's small size and the hose holding it in place.

I drove the car 200 miles yesterday when I went to the smart meet. Checked it when I got home and nothing moved, filter stayed in place and no oily residue anywhere in the engine bay. I believe this is because the catch tank is sitting at the lowest point so it settles there as the first picture demonstrates.

If you go this route be sure to plug up the connection on the TIK. I used a 1" piece of that tubing an brass plug I found at Home Depot. Forgot to take a picture of that and did not feel like taking the rear panels back off. Maybe next time.