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Old 04-05-2008, 07:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
Karl Roth's Avatar
 
Location: Hampden, MA
Drive: smart fortwo passion coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPaul View Post
Please, correct me if I'm wrong, and I probably am.
Fog lights are located as close to the ground as possible, to light up potential obstacles below the glare of fog. That's why the optimum use of fog lights should be below the fog, without any parasite light from sources above, such as low beams. But fog lights have to be installed in such a way that it is not possible to use them without the low beams, thereby defeating its intended purpose. Right?
Unless fog lights are more "to be seen" than "to see". Do I detect a paradox?
They are for the to be noticed use. Down low so the user is not dazzled by the on bord equipment they are intended to warn other motorists of your presence and then switched off when they are in close (100ft). They are not intended to help you see better. There are lots of supplemental lights used in venues like rally and such most are not for road use.
hows that for a couple a ducks
karl
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Old 04-05-2008, 07:47 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Location: City of Williamsburg, VA
Fogs - Pulsar

Fogs:
Every car that I have had with factory installed front fogs were switched/wired so that they extinguished when the high beams were lit (Audi, Peugeot, Acura, Prelude, Subaru). I got a state inspection rejection once in MA for DIY fogs that did not extinguish.

Pulsar:
I want one. GMGDave, check will be in the mail.
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Old 05-11-2008, 02:31 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Location: Kettering, OH ETA 25 Jan 09
Drive: 08 Blue/Silver Passion
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Thanks Dave777; just installed this mod following your DIY and it works like a champ.
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Old 05-22-2008, 07:23 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
Location: Switzerland
Drive: 2004 Brabus Fortwo coupe
potential for corrosion of wire contacts?

interesting mod, but i have concerns related to durability...

photo shows a sealed connector between the CHIMSL and the connected wiring... automakers rarely use such connectors in a dry location...

also, there appears to be no gasket between CHIMSL body and the body spoiler, another indicator that this is not a sealed void...

if my observations are correct, i suggest someone develop an alternate mod that taps the CHIMSL flasher into the supply wiring, somewhere inside the passenger compartment (in the Fortwo 450 which I drive, the wires feed down the left c-pillar and are easy accessable behind the trunk trim panel...

this way you will never suffer the effects of corrosion acting on your CHIMSL wiring, or (in the event it is not sealed), or the flasher unit itself...

because when, if, it fails, the consequence could in fact, be that which you were trying to prevent with the mod itself...

regards, bob
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:56 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Location: Sacramento
Drive: PT CRUISER / 300M / PU
GMGDave

I have your 'NO HOLES' License Plate Bracket and love it.
( GoMiniGo-Home of Innovative Products for your car - 'NO HOLES' LPB Kit ) Now I need the 3 brake lite kit. Your quality of the 'NO HOLES' is great and every one loves it. See private message for order of the 3 brake lite kit.

Remind people to tell the dealer DO NOT drill for the front plate if they think they may want the license plate bracket. Several have seen mine and they are upset that they didn't see it soon enought to tell the dealer DO NOT DRILL Holes in my car.

Dick n DJ
DBeathHomes.com
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Old 05-22-2008, 06:45 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Location: Chesterfield, VA
Drive: 56 Ford Fairlane
To get a water tight splice, use a Posi-Lock splice and then liquid electrical tape, (it paints on and seals the connection). Posi-Lock splices can be used over and over, to find a local source, just google "Posi-Lock". Great product. You can also use standard crimp splices and coat with liquid electrical tape.
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:53 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
Location: Switzerland
Drive: 04 Brabus Fortwo coupe
But why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old SGM View Post
To get a water tight splice, use a Posi-Lock splice and then liquid electrical tape, (it paints on and seals the connection). Posi-Lock splices can be used over and over, to find a local source, just google "Posi-Lock". Great product. You can also use standard crimp splices and coat with liquid electrical tape.
Sure, such band-aids are possible, but why go to the trouble and cost, when removing the interior trim panel prevents all this hassle? (besides, even with all that effort, even the best mechanic can't ensure that the seal is tight and robust.)
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Old 05-30-2008, 09:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Location: Olympia, WA
Drive: smart fortwo passion coupe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave777 View Post
That looks fine also, but...there appears to be a significant difference that may or may not matter to buyers.

The WebElectric module has a delay feature, explained on their website, that keeps the light from flashing every time the brakes are applied, for instance in stop and go traffic. It will not flash if the brakes are applied within approximately 15 seconds of the previous application. This, IMHO, is a nice feature that keeps the person behind you from being annoyed by the flashing.

The other one, if I read the comments correctly, flashes every time the brakes are applied.

It will be up to the buyer of course if that is worth more than double the price. Personally, I prefer the WebElectric logic.
There is another thing that I notice, also. On the WebElectric website, they state that they have a NO QUESTIONS ASKED, LIFETIME WARRANTY. If ANY module, of ANY type, ever fails, just send it back to them, and they will either repair or replace it FOR FREE!! I don't think you're going to find that kind of customer service dealing with an e-bay store. You MIGHT, but probably not likely! Also, I just e-mailed a question to them 5 minutes ago at 8:15 pm on a Friday night, and I had an actual response back answering my question within 5 minutes! Now THAT'S customer service!!!
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Old 06-06-2008, 03:59 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Location: Charlotte NC
Drive: Red Cabrio 2008
No brake lights

I installed one on my Dodge Caravan and it worked great. When I started to install on my Smart I cut the wire and went to test it with my volt meter. I have no brake lights

I cant find a blown fuse but no brake lights. Also for some reason I can't get the car out of park.

Do you think I did all this by just cutting the wire?

Can not find out which fuse is for the brake lights.
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:18 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Location: Pacific Northwest
Drive: 2008 smart Passion
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billc View Post
I installed one on my Dodge Caravan and it worked great. When I started to install on my Smart I cut the wire and went to test it with my volt meter. I have no brake lights

I cant find a blown fuse but no brake lights. Also for some reason I can't get the car out of park.

Do you think I did all this by just cutting the wire?

Can not find out which fuse is for the brake lights.

Is the key in the ON position? No brake lights unless it's ON.

The problem of not getting out of Park is most likely coincidental. Call the dealer for a tow or use the Search function above to find the solution to that, not so uncommon problem.
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