New exhaust outlet...

[randyzimmer]

Here it is, just got done with the test drive...

http://www.randyzimmer.com/smart/parts/muffler

[GoMXracing]

how do you like it>? , notice any power differences>?not my cup of tea....(the center exit or cutting up rear valence) but some may like it.

i can wait exhaust i ordered arrives..

[mmmeat]

Your Smart appears very happy.

Your pal,
Meat.

[mfoster]

The sidelow picture looks like the original pipe is still there. Is that new output really hooked up or is it just for looks?

[randyzimmer]

Originally Posted by mfoster

The sidelow picture looks like the original pipe is still there. Is that new output really hooked up or is it just for looks?

The plan was to go to the dyno, set a baseline then quick drill and install and see what happened.
Problem is my buddy has a big deal coming up soon and is rushing to get to Englishtown with all his customers so I have to (am glad to) wait to dyno it.
Sooo, I couldn't wait and installed it but left the old outlet so I can stuff something in the new outlet and get that baseline with it "almost" the way it came. The new tip intrudes into the can just a bit so it won't be exact but in return, the back-to-back will be in the exact same weather and conditions because it'll be just minutes between instead of hours.

"Meat",
Yeah, it looks happy.
rz

[curtis]

I already ordered my DT exhaust

[randyzimmer]

In case anyone is interested, here's how I did it.
Part is Vibrant #1305 it is short and Heavy.
I marked the black cover before removing it.
That part is easy, 2 push pins at the ends, 2 screws in the back and the rest is just clipped on.
Next I used the same method to mark the muffler.
I eyballed the best place to drill the hole so welding would be easiest, that puts the top of the new pipe ~3/4 up into the ridge, the center hole ~ 5-3/4 down from the colored panel edge.

I made a 3" hole in the heat shield but it was a bear to weld down there so You may want a larger hole. The mat cut easily with a sharp blade.
I then made a 2" hole in the muffler and used a die grinder to taste.
I marked the top of the tip so it was rotated correctly, then I supported the tip with a couple bungies from the hatch and adjusted it to a degree up at the end and measured a triangle from the bumper mounts to be sure it was straight.

add edit:
almost forgot!
This is where I disconnected the battery.
Under the RH mat, 10mm on the ground side.
It killed the clock but the Scangauge and the radio retained their settings.

Welding is tricky in that the muffler is much thinner than the tip and my access was small with the 3" hole.
I used paste but I guess you could feed argon into the old exhaust hole to make an envelope if you had a second bottle.
After that it was just cutting the 4" hole in the cover and reattaching it.
I used tin snips to trim the 1/2" or so at the bottom to flow straight down and a little sandpaper to bevel the cut.
I had the whole thing done in about three hours and that was with all the discovery, knowing this stuff should cut an hour off it.

[Smartbillet]

Maybe I'm a little slow, but am I understanding this correctly, that you cut a hole in the stock muffler and welded on a center exit tip????

[randyzimmer]

Originally Posted by Smartbillet

Maybe I'm a little slow, but am I understanding this correctly, that you cut a hole in the stock muffler and welded on a center exit tip????

Yep,
I have a welder, I could always cover it back up!
Actually, I didn't know just what I'd find in there but it is pretty open behind the hole I cut. No worry with the center mandrel hitting anything (but I didn't know that before I did it).

3 hours + $32.00 = cool pooper

[randyzimmer]

I made some .wav of it driving around with the window open.
It is louder than it was but not too bad.
Compare it to the School bus, the radio and the directional signal and you'll see.
With the window closed, you hear it and find the engine does things you didn't know it did before, like blip on downshifts.
http://www.randyzimmer.com/smart/parts/muffler