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Old 03-05-2009, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Passenger grab handle installation

In other cars we've had there has always been a grab handle above the passenger door. Not that I'm a wild driver, but my wife has wished for one in the smart also.

I stopped at an auto wrecker, one where they let you wander about and remove stuff on your own, and got a grab handle from something, might have been a Ford, that was pretty much the identical color to the interior plastic in the smart. Less than $5. I chose a "flexible" handle, but they also come in solid or folding styles. I thought the flexible would offer more mounting possibilities.

After pondering lots of locations I chose the one shown in the photos below. It doesn't interfere with getting in or out, or with visibility. The local smart service manager told me there are no wires in this location. I hope that's true.

There is, in some locations, quite a bit of space between the moulding and the frame inside. Not wanting to put a bending strain on long screws, I chose to mount it so the pull is straight down. The screw length shown is what was required to reach at least a quarter inch into the metal frame, and is very sturdy.

The mounting should be done as far outboard, toward the door, as possible to be sure the drilled hole goes into the frame, not just through the moulding and into dead space.

I like it, and so does my wife.

The handle and screws it came with, which I didn't use.


The self-tapping screws I used.


The final install.

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Old 03-05-2009, 06:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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..thanks captain...very good idea with excellent results...

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Old 03-05-2009, 06:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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very nice. looks OEM
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Old 03-05-2009, 06:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Clever idea, and nicely executed!
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Hey- what are you doing reading my mind. This was one of the first things I noticed when I rode in the passenger seat. I'll see about getting one as soon as I can and I'll mount it farther back along the top.Thanks for showing us this.
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Great job!!
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Old 03-05-2009, 09:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nonuro View Post
I'll see about getting one as soon as I can and I'll mount it farther back along the top.Thanks for showing us this.
Be really careful, and drill a tiny hole first to see how far in the metal is from the moulding. I was quite surprised, as it felt, banging on the moulding, like the metal was much closer. If you can, go to a dealer and study their display frame and take some measurements. I originally wanted to mount it horizontally, and farther aft, but realized the surface of the moulding was too far from the metal underneath and the handle would essentially be dangling at the end of long screws and a person pulling on it would be bending everything. The location I chose, which I do like, was to get the load to be one of tension rather than shear.

It will be good to see what others come up with. Glad you like it.

Views of the right upper door frame, and side air bag deployed.



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Old 03-05-2009, 09:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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One more thing...if you don't have access to a wrecking yard, but know a handle that would be perfect, just buy it new. I priced a few handles at Toyota and they were around $25, brand new.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thank you for this post, I was just thinking about doing it. I am going to try a Mercedes Benz C class handle that folds up when not in use.
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Old 03-06-2009, 04:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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"...get the load to be one of tension rather than shear"

A threaded fastener in "tension" is pulling only against the overlap area of the threads, which is very small for a sheet-metal screw with probably less than one full thread engaged (since, after all, it's only going into sheet metal). Shear loading pulls against the entire cross-sectional area of the root, and is vastly stronger.

What this application really needs is threaded inserts added into the frame, which would then allow using machine screws, together with bushings to fill the interior void between the frame and the molding. Doing this properly requires removing the plastic molding.

An automotive hand-hold installed with sheet-metal screws in tension is simply a disaster waiting to happen; these fasteners are nowhere near strong enough.
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