This is perfect. I ordered a Wolo compact Italian air horn and got it yesterday. (model 419 - http://www.wolo-mfg.com/air.htm ) From what I have read it should work, no problem. Correct? It fits in the palm of my hand.
I am not a technician or a mechanic, but I normally can figure things out easily. Can the average person handle this installation?
Let me know if you need a photo of the plugs on the back I can take them...
Last edited by bradgarbus; 04-09-2008 at 06:39 AM.
Reason: forgot additioanl info...
Need some info on getting the lower black side skirt off from under the door to get to the torx bolt that holds the front fender skirt in place. Seems to come off by pulling backwards not outwards, and has anyone gotten it off safely and then back on ?? What are the tricks to getting all 5 of the body clips to catch as you slide it forward? Help, Thanx !
Did my horn swap this weekend, not tough and it sounds so great..... I did pull both fenders and front header as a unit and that wasn't tough at all. Did break one clip on rocker panel and of course the dealer didn't stock yet, but is getting me one. I told him not to rush since the panels are out for white paint.
I just did the horn swap this afternoon by jacking the left front, removing the tire and pulling down the splash apron enough to work thru from there. It was alittle cumbersome but not that bad.
My question to you is this. Normal color coding for Euro wiring is brown is +, blue is -. Did you hook up your brown and blue wires accordingly or did you have to reverse them, putting the brown on the negative post (top) and the blue on the bottom or + post? This assumes a mounting position like the one in this thread.
Was just wondering. It works great but with the wires apparently backwards. With them wired according to color and polarity, there was a wimpy groan and it obviously was not right. Also didn't realize that the key has to be on to beep the horn...unlike American cars....not that much of a horn blower but will be now if someone can't see me and wants to cut me off.....
Also....the outlet trumpets face towards that vent opening in the splash shield. I hope that water from road splash doesn't drive up into the horn and screw it up....
This is perfect. I ordered a Wolo compact Italian air horn and got it yesterday. (model 419 - http://www.wolo-mfg.com/air.htm ) From what I have read it should work, no problem. Correct? It fits in the palm of my hand.
I am not a technician or a mechanic, but I normally can figure things out easily. Can the average person handle this installation?
Let me know if you need a photo of the plugs on the back I can take them...
That when the Italian Horn from Griot's is installed as shown in this thread, that the + terminal is down and the - is up? Memory fade here driving me nuts!!!
I couldn't figure out all the attachment points for the panels so I had to get as much loose as I could and squeeze the horn in place. Would like to eventually learn how each panel is removed.
Mine only worked with Brown connected to negative (-). I noticed the vent opening and chose to mount the new horn in front of the bracket in the same spot as the stock horn. With this position the horns flare forward just below the center grill.
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My question to you is this. Normal color coding for Euro wiring is brown is +, blue is -. Did you hook up your brown and blue wires accordingly or did you have to reverse them, putting the brown on the negative post (top) and the blue on the bottom or + post? This assumes a mounting position like the one in this thread.
Was just wondering. It works great but with the wires apparently backwards. With them wired according to color and polarity, there was a wimpy groan and it obviously was not right. Also didn't realize that the key has to be on to beep the horn...unlike American cars....not that much of a horn blower but will be now if someone can't see me and wants to cut me off. . . . .
John
The Germans have consistently used BROWN as GROUND (-), anywhere on all makes. Horn is BLUE, Brake is RED W/BLUE tracer. Still true on the Smart.
Need some info on getting the lower black side skirt off from under the door to get to the torx bolt that holds the front fender skirt in place. Seems to come off by pulling backwards not outwards, and has anyone gotten it off safely and then back on ?? What are the tricks to getting all 5 of the body clips to catch as you slide it forward? Help, Thanx !
Remove the triangular plastic cover at the top of the fender and that lets you get at two screws - one holds fender and one goes to edge of cowl panel. Under the hood, remove the screw at the top, outside by the corner of the hood. Remove the screws across the top of the header above the grille. Unsnap the bottom of the front spoiler. Remove the plastic pin in the door jam. Now do this on the other side of the car. That is all straightforward and easy. Then comes the part that is a little more difficult, but not real hard. Remove the two push pins at the rear wheel opening that hold the rocker box. Reach under the box and unsnap the three clips that hold the box in place, (pull out about 1"). Go to the front and now the box is floppy and you can pull the bottom edge out and deflect the front black plastic panel that is the bottom edge of the wheel well. At the rear of the box, pull the rear top and unsnap it from the body (again about 1"). Now take the entire box and lightly pull out at the bottom while strongly pulling back. The first time I pulled out too far and broke one of the plastic clips. The key is that as you have light pressure outward also pull back hard. That is what the trick is. The front has a tab that comes back only and the clips will slide out of their tracks and the panel is out. To reinstall then unthread the clips from the body studs and reinstall into the box (round diameters toward the car so they will self snap onto the studs) and they align in little notches in the rocker box so you can't get wrong. It's easy to reinstall. All of the above lets you get at the one screw that holds the bottom of the fender(s). Now the entire front is loose and lifts off - remember to unclip the two side marker lights. With it of it is very easy to remove the grille for paint or the chrome option. Very easy to do the horn upgread now since it is right out in the open. Took about an hour and a half to remove, install horn, reinstall fenders. But I have done this kind of stuff before and it was easier to do than type about.
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