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Old 12-15-2008, 10:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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AMP Help

Hey Guys -

I need an amp now that I have the woofer coming in. I dont want to spend a lot since I am going to get the rims going too. Any ideas?

Thanks for your help!

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Old 12-15-2008, 10:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I am by no means an audiophile or electronics geek, but I had a need to drive a pair of Polk speakers off a TV. I bought one of the Cana Kit audio amp boards and a few things from Radio Shack and turned it into a very small, very inexpensive, very good sounding amp. Even numb me did it!

Audio Amplifiers - Cana Kit
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Your desires will dictate what you need. Do you only want to run the amp on the subwoofer channel or do you want to boost your new component speakers as well? It may honestly be best to consult the folks at a car audio place to get a "proper" amp from them even if you install it yourself.

One thing that might further help any power situation is a farad-class capacitor.
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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John what the heck is a farad-class capacitor? Sounds like its from Star Trek dude. LOL
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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and audio stores here blow man. They are so overpriced its unreal. I dont really have time to install my self or the patients so I just take it in but its cheaper to get one on the net then take it to them to install.
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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You'll find some higher-power systems with capacitors hooked up from 12V to ground to counteract dips in the power rails because of the audio components' power draw. A measure of capacitance is the "Farad" but it wasn't until the last decade or so that capacities approached one Farad in size. The $20 (?) capacitors I've seen advertized at Fry's are 1.5 Farad "digital capacitors" (nonsense word combination) intended for audio applications.

I wondered if your base troubles were related to poor power which is why I asked about the performance at lower volume levels. A system without an amp might be improved with one of these power capacitors but amps are typically designed to provide superior sound even with poor power distribution.

For lower audio levels, a "poor" power distribution can be fine; it's only when the power delivered goes up that the distribution becomes a factor.
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Old 12-15-2008, 11:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the explanation John. I appreciate it.

I am thinking of getting an amp like Sun has.

MTX Audio X Thunder 704X 4-Channel Power Amplifier - eBay (item 290269465747 end time Dec-20-08 09:40:45 PST)
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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anyone who recommends a cap has no idea about audio...

you do not need a cap!

and even if you think you did, you still dont!!

you only need a cap if you have 4 exhausts on your 3cyl 70hp car
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewd View Post
you do not need a cap!
Agreed. To put it in layman's terms, a capacitor is used to store and supply energy. A battery is also used to store and supply energy, but the difference is that a capacitor is capable of delivering very large amounts of energy, but only for a short time (milliseconds). A battery delivers moderate amounts of energy for a relative long period of time (minutes or hours, depending on the load).

Typically, when the music requires a massive amount of energy, it isn't sustained for a long time, and the energy stored in the battery (or capacitor) makes up for what the alternator can't deliver. Over time, the alternator charges the loss out of the battery (or capacitor) because the large current demands isn't sustained.

The idea of adding a capacitor to a car audio system started when amplifiers began approaching the 1000 watt range. At 1,000 watts, a 12 volt system requires 83 amps, which is a lot. Your battery in your smart is capable of delivering 83 amps, but only for short periods of time (probably several seconds). The alternator is NOT capable of delivering that amount of current. If you kept it up by playing the music loud, the battery's voltage would "sag" and a capacitor would make up the difference, but again, only for very brief periods. As you go higher and higher in current draw, eventually, you'll get to a point where a lead-acid battery can't supply current fast enough, and a capacitor would start to make sense. But by then, you would need to beef up the alternator and a lot of other equipment.

Bottom line -- if your lights start to dim when you turn up the music, you not only need to add a capacitor, but also a beefier alternator, heavier duty wiring, etc.

Best,

geosynch
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Thanks! I am looking more at a 400-500 watt amp. I should be ok?
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