Does everyone use speaker level inputs on amps with Radio 10?
Using the factory radio head unit with an aftermarket amp, do you always need to use speaker level inputs on the amp, or does the radio 10 have line level outs?
Might I also recommend a drag chute for your Smart?
Perhaps a college level course for your favorite 7 year old?
Just trying to come up with odd combinations. The Radio 10 is such a mild mannered speaker squeaker that the thought of attaching an amp to it leaves me squinting (and now my eyes are starting to hurt). Might I suggest looking into an after-market head unit and decent speaker components with properly engineered crossovers?
Thank God sarcasm is alive and well here. I made the assumption that a simple question would get a simple answer...wrong.
planning on component speakers, either the Focal 165A1, Polk db6501 or MM6501 (may have too deep mounting depth) with Dynamat, and either the JL sub with enclosure from Crutchfield (fiberglass form fit made by JL) or the MDF box with the same JL sub from 4smartcar.com (read somewhere here that it has less than the optimal volume for the sub - prob still sounds great though). Amps considered include JL G4500, Alpine F300, MTX 704X.
Dont need GPS, and dont care about radio, just CDs or MP3s, so I thought of staying with the factory head unit.
Now, since we are all still up and in a frisky mood, what's the answer to my question?
Thank God sarcasm is alive and well here. I made the assumption that a simple question would get a simple answer...wrong.
planning on component speakers, either the Focal 165A1, Polk db6501 or MM6501 (may have too deep mounting depth) with Dynamat, and either the JL sub with enclosure from Crutchfield (fiberglass form fit made by JL) or the MDF box with the same JL sub from 4smartcar.com (read somewhere here that it has less than the optimal volume for the sub - prob still sounds great though). Amps considered include JL G4500, Alpine F300, MTX 704X.
Dont need GPS, and dont care about radio, just CDs or MP3s, so I thought of staying with the factory head unit.
Now, since we are all still up and in a frisky mood, what's the answer to my question?
seriously, then. John, you seem to know, all the folks that add subs and amps, they don't all replace the head unit (point taken - a ne head unit would help but this budget requires steps) many seem to use it fine. I'm not looking for perfection, just improving the mains and adding a sub. I thought that even tho most here seem to add upgraded speakers to rhe 10 without an amp, that since I would need one for the sub anyway, a 4 channel bridged to 3 would be better for not much more money than a sub amp alone.
Would you recommend a head unit that has better quality sound AND enough inbred amp power to do the job for the component mains with just a sub amp.
And please, someone tell me if the radio 10 has pre outs or must I use speaker level out,,,just in case I have to go that way until budget allows.
What I can say about the radio 10 and the factory sub: the built-in sub amplifier picks straight off the speaker wires (one tweeter, one door speaker). The wiring I've seen for the Radio10 has no preamp mentioned though there's a very remote possibility the smaller connector has more than just the auxiliary input to the glove box.
A head unit to give you enough power seems - to this non-audiophile engineer - to be the more solid approach though a powered sub may still be needed.
In all honesty, if you have not yet upgraded the speakers, you will quite probably blow the factory units if you use an amp and start cranking the volume. The factory speakers are about as cheap as they come! Tiny magnetics and the small coil that goes with that can't handle the power one could put into them.
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