Door Speaker Installation -- Shortcuts and Recommendations

fmaxwell · 08-17-2008, 06:37 AM

First off, let me say thanks to Evilution for their wonderfully detailed and illustrated instructions. Without them, I would have been in for a really unpleasant time.

I installed door speakers yesterday (Polk DB651) and came up with a way to make the process a lot easier. I used the door panel removal instructions at Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia

The second step (after mirror removal) reads: "Loosen the 2 Torx bolts on the back end of the door. This loosens the door handle making it easier to remove the panel later on."
Remove, do not just loosen the two screws on the back end of the door and pull the door handle assembly back approximately 1/2" to detach it.
The assembly will hang freely, attached by one cable on the passenger side or two (one for the mechanical lock) on the driver's side. These are flexible, sheathed cables like one finds on a bicycle for brakes.

The next step reads: "Pull off the rubber seal that runs along the bottom of the window."
Do not remove the rubber seal that runs along the bottom of the window.
With the door handle hanging free (see above), this step is not necessary to remove or replace the door panel. Removing it just complicates the whole process and leaves you having to reinstall, and properly align, it after you put the panel back. On the first door, I tried following the Evilution instructions to the letter and when I got to the reinstallation step, the frustration of trying to get the door panel under the door handle assembly, without damaging either, led me to discover the alternative method I described here.

I recommend not cutting the foam door insulation sheet over the speaker.
I have seen duct tape, over the years, weathering, and coming loose. Were this to happen in your door panel, it could lead to rainwater damaging the speaker. Instead, I unfastened the foam sheet from the front edge of the door and folded it back. There are a couple of spots where it goes over the interior door panel attachment points at the front edge that need to be torn/cut to free it, but don't fret this: It's obvious where and very easy.

If you really prefer to cut the foam, I recommend that you cut a flap rather than using the X cut method.
The three cuts to make the flap should be to the left, underneath, and to the right side of the speaker. You can fold this up to install the new speakers and then duct-tape it when you finish. If the tape fails over the years, rainwater that gets in will not be dumping onto your speaker.

I recommend front-mounting Polk DB651 speakers (the stock speakers are rear-mounted) and not using the Polk clip-nuts.
In order to use the clip-nuts, one would need to cut away the plastic from the raised circle in which the factory speakers mount. This reduces panel stiffness. The panel is thick enough and strong enough that the screws can be driven directly through it and they hold fine. To do this, drill a very small pilot hole at each mouting point. If you properly center the speaker, each screw will come through just outside of the aforementioned plastic ring. I snugged them down well, but I'm sure that someone determined enough could crank them down until the stripped the panel out, but just tightening until you feel them snug-up should lead to no problems.

mvaldes · 08-17-2008, 07:19 AM

[quote=fmaxwell;123830]First off, let me say thanks to Evilution for their wonderfully detailed and illustrated instructions. Without them, I would have been in for a really unpleasant time.

Thank you for the tips. New speakers are on my to-do list but I've been putting it off because of all the difficulty described on other threads with re-installing the door panel - frustration and injured fingers, for example. Does your modified method make putting the panels back on as easy as everyone says they are to remove?

Thanks in advance.

VinceLA · 08-17-2008, 10:42 AM

fmaxwell, totally agree on your first 3 pts.

Although I didn't use the 651 speaker grille or the clip nuts. I mounted them behind the factory grille, which fits perfectly as well.

ck_az · 08-17-2008, 11:17 AM

[quote=mvaldes;123841]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmaxwell

First off, let me say thanks to Evilution for their wonderfully detailed and illustrated instructions. Without them, I would have been in for a really unpleasant time.

Thank you for the tips. New speakers are on my to-do list but I've been putting it off because of all the difficulty described on other threads with re-installing the door panel - frustration and injured fingers, for example. Does your modified method make putting the panels back on as easy as everyone says they are to remove?

Thanks in advance.

It is still a pain. What is funny at least with my install on one door it was easier to get the panel back in place with the door handle attached. The other door liked it removed. For both doors removal was easier with the handle loose. I recommend wrapping a towel around the mirror. It will fall while you are trying to put all of this back together and you risk scratching the car.

If you have the time just do the mod. I really think 90% of the people out there could do it. You just have to have some patience. I did it by myself. Having a 2nd person would make things a bit easier.

fmaxwell · 08-17-2008, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvaldes

Thank you for the tips. New speakers are on my to-do list but I've been putting it off because of all the difficulty described on other threads with re-installing the door panel - frustration and injured fingers, for example. Does your modified method make putting the panels back on as easy as everyone says they are to remove?

It was really easy once I did that. I had to readjust the glass this morning in the driver's door because it was binding and powering-up slowly (different topic for a later thread.) The whole operation to remove the panel was about ten minutes and it took about the same amount of time to put it back on. I did have a helper/holder, but it was a simple procedure.

It might go even quicker with some Armor-All as a lubricant on the plastic.

There's no way I would attempt it again with the door handle assembly on. It was biting into the paint at the edge of the door panel (fortunately, the part that's hidden) before I rethought it and pulled the handle off. After that, it was pretty easy.

fmaxwell · 08-17-2008, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VinceLA

Although I didn't use the 651 speaker grille or the clip nuts. I mounted them behind the factory grille, which fits perfectly as well.

I thought about that and it's how I did the speakers in my Miata, but the grills for the DB651 are a really nice complement to the silver interior accents and are reminiscent of the smart fortwo wheels. I'm happy with the result, but seriously considered keeping the factory grills, too.

Laziness is part of what tipped the balance for me. Now I can remove the speakers and replace them if necessary without taking the door apart.

Evilution · 08-17-2008, 06:03 PM

Funny you should make those comments, Since doing that mod in March I have changed a few things.
The thing that really put me off about removing the door handle completely was the hour it took me to get it back on but I found a small hidden adjustment screw which eventually made it easy.
We also tried the flap cut method and the peel back method, both are better than the X cut and give much more room to play with.
I'm with you on leaving the rubber in place but it can help the first time you remove the door panel as it gives you a better view of what is going on. I certainly didn't have any problem refitting it.
We rear mounted some infinity speakers (6020cs) just to prove it would work, then the next day I mounted the same type of speakers front mount to my car to provide an alternative for people who want to fit larger speakers.
We also experimented with single sheets of sound deadening with good results.

All of this will be edited or added to the site eventually, I have lost all motivation at the moment.

mvaldes · 08-17-2008, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fmaxwell

It was really easy once I did that. I had to readjust the glass this morning in the driver's door because it was binding and powering-up slowly (different topic for a later thread.) The whole operation to remove the panel was about ten minutes and it took about the same amount of time to put it back on. I did have a helper/holder, but it was a simple procedure.

It might go even quicker with some Armor-All as a lubricant on the plastic.

There's no way I would attempt it again with the door handle assembly on. It was biting into the paint at the edge of the door panel (fortunately, the part that's hidden) before I rethought it and pulled the handle off. After that, it was pretty easy.

That's really encouraging. Today I bought the parts at Radio Shack to put some USB ports in my glove box. I'll plan to do that and meanwhile order some speakers. Then, whenever time permits, I'll have them on hand to try out your modified technique.

fmaxwell · 08-17-2008, 08:56 PM

Quote: