I finally connected the Bass 600 sub to the smart :
Driver seat removed
No key in console, Volume low and then radio shut OFF....!
I used the original sub connection that is located under the carpet of every smart model.
After a little hunting I found it near the other 3 cables that plug into the seat.
I severed the connections on the plug only on the relevant wires and cut them about 2'' from the plug so it could still be used in the future for reconnecting it the original way.
I used the (speaker level inputs) wire harness that was supplied with the Woofer
The connections used were as follows:
The Brown wire on the plug is ground and was left alone The Blue wire on the plug represents R+ and was connected to Gray/Bk of Bass 600
The Blue/Brown on the plug represents R- and was connected to Gray of Bass 600
The Green on the plug represents L+ and was connected to White/Bk of Bass 600
The Brown/Green on the plug represents L- and was connected to White of Bass 600
The Black wire coming out of the plug was extended and was run to the Remote Turn-On connection on the Bass Woofer. This connection makes it possible to activate the woofer when the radio is turned on.
I ran no 8 stranded cable (courtesy from HD) to the bracket I made that held the woofer that holds the seat in place. This was my ground connection.
The 12 volt + was taken from the battery directly. I ran more no.8 from the woofer towards the battery over the middle hump by the seat. To do that I a) removed the plastic plug located below the handbrake. This exposed the little Torx screw that loosened the complete console in the rear b) I removed the exposed larger Torx screw that held the cup holder.
The cup holder's removal made it possible to slide the console a bit to the front so it could be disengaged and then lifted upwards for exposing more carpeting. It could not be lifted past the gear selector knob however.
After several attempts and by using another stiff wire for poking I taped the no.8 wire to it and successfully thru push and pull brought the wire near the battery.
That was as far as I went then, for I did not want to disconnect the battery which is actually the proper way of doing things. Then came a very important addition to the setup ! An inline fuse holder was purchased from a local electronics supply house with a 40 Amp. fuse (Radio Shack did not have it)
A ring terminal on the wire of the holder was placed on an already used threaded piece of the plus terminal. Enough thread was still available and I tightened it down with a small metric nut that I had in house.
Then the fuse was placed in the holder and I was ready to transform my little car's sound machine into something it had never done before.
(It should also be mentioned that a small attenuator control with cable must be mounted where it's readily accessible for adjusting quickly and easily when various material's are played. The location of a very bright blue light on this same control indicating that the woofer is up and running should also be considered.. for it could prove to be a nuisance when driving at night.)
So the radio was turned on and within a few seconds the indicators lighted up on the woofer and control and my little box started woofing.
The Bass Subwoofer did what it had to, and all was well...It brought a grin to my face!
Today
Linear Mode
