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Old 07-18-2009, 05:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Don't try towing with the "tow" bolts .... not made for that sort of thing.

Don't try towing backwards. Nuthin much good will come of that I'm thinkin....

The Smart will tow just fine with a normal baseplate and towbar setup. Can't get much simpler as far as towing 4-down goes. Not all that many cars are suitable to be towed behind an RV without extensive mods or limitations.

Using a trailer is for sure a viable method for somebody that only needs to tow extremely rarely and has a way to deal with the trailer storage and movement issues at the destinations. Many folks only tow for "snowbird" trips of several months and stay at destinations that allow trailer storage and have capacity. Often they will tow a trailer with a car and motorcycle or golf cart inside for instance.

In my own case, a trailer is just not a viable option. Towing 4-down and also using a removable motorcycle lift is my method of choice .

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Old 07-26-2009, 08:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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somebody mentioned that there were actually two threaded holes in the front, one on each side, but only one has an access hole in the fiberglass. I did drop by the dealer in KC last week and look at the Smart "skeleton" they have in the display room and sure enough there is a threaded hole in each side. Only problem is, I asked the service manager about the possibity of using them as tow points and he said NO. Said the threads were not normal full-depth and would strip out if used as tow anchors, so I guess the issue is pretty much resolved.
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