ScanGaugeII

[nscaler]

Originally Posted by Perscitus

That's a perfect spot. In your picture I can't see how the cable leaves the SGII, presumably from the back connector. Did you drill thru the plastic forward of the domelight (just behind the SGII) to get the cable behind what smart calls the "overhead control panel" where the sunvisors are mounted? Can you describe the cable run from that point down to the OBD port?

I still can't figure out how to get the cable behind the A-pillar covering.

Look in the Scangauge users thread in the Tech & Gadgets section for more info.
I drilled a hole in the cover just big enough for the cable and then cut a slit from the edge to the hole - about three inches. The slit disappears pretty well. I used the white Cat-5 cable extension and it looks better then the black.

[SuperGeek]

Originally Posted by nscaler

I know that the closed loop means the thermostat is not circulating coolant through the radiator. Open loop means opened thermostat. I think IGN is ignition timing and how much advancement.

I see where you're going with this, but I think your definition is about 25 years old, before OBD-II came along.

Open loop means the thermostat, O2 sensors and other emissions control systems have yet to engage full computer-control mode of the air/fuel mix, timing, etc. Typically the first minute or two of a cold engine warming up is spent in open loop, or in full throttle. During open loop, you're more likely to have a rich fuel/air mix and smell unburned gasoline coming out the tailpipe. If your car runs in open loop a lot of the time, you probably have codes (see "Scan" in the ScanGauge) and need some service.

Closed loop is the opposite of open loop and is normal operation for 99% of your driving. This is where your tailpipe emissions are about as clean as they're going to get.


IGN for the ScanGauge does refer to ignition timing, but that's all I can see in the manual. I think it's measured in degrees of advance, but I could be wrong. I don't understand the subtleties of timing enough to worry about that value.

[ck_az]

Anyone know the right cutoff setting to keep the fuel mpg from going to 9999 when coasting? Not sure if this effects the mileage average. I don't think it does. The manual speaks about a manual setting for this from 0 to x.

Also if you would like to PM me a picture of where you mounted your Scangauge along with any description on how you have done this I would like to build a consolidated web page with this information. It will have references back to these posts when applicable. The posts are just getting long and it would be nice to reference a single page with all the ideas.

Thanks,
Chris

http://www.aznet.com/wpb - My useless blog on Tech stuff. Smart stuff soon to be added.

[Perscitus]

Finally got my Scangauge II mounted, but it's not fully calibrated yet (haven't been to the pump for a fill-up and initial set). Here are some photos and install notes.

I solved the A-pillar cover removal problem by not needing to remove it at all. Instead I found a flat black ethernet cable that can be easily slid into the narrow slot between the pillar plastic & windshield glass. Even if should it stick out a bit for you, it is invisible against the black enamel coating around the edge of the glass. I found this cable at Cyberguys where I buy a lot of computer stuff. It's part #119-6410, $4.45. I also got an RJ45 coupler (#180-0500, $0.85).

The cable is 10' long, about 5/16" wide and flatter than a phone line. Even allowing extra inches where it comes out from between the glass and the panel above the mirror (can be pushed back back under the panel once the Scangauge is mounted), I have more than a foot left at the other end below the OBD port where I coupled to the SG cable & stowed the excess.

Remove all the screws (you'll need two sizes of Torx drivers) holding the "overhead control panel" plastic (this means removing the sunvisors too). Loosen the back end of the panel by getting your fingertips between the headliner and plastic at the extreme right and left ends and bending the panel end out towards the rear of the car. There's only a little tab of plastic clipping the panel to the piece over the door. Push the panel forward about an inch and it will drop down held up only by the electrical wires feeding the domelight and passenger airbag monitor.

Making sure I had enough extra cable coming out right above the mirror, I taped the flat ethernet cable in a few spots along the steel frame leading it over to the A-pillar. I removed the screw in the over-door covering at this point and put the cable behind it, then replaced the screw, figuring this would retain the cable in place at the upper end of the A-pillar. You can replace the overhead control panel now, fitting in the front edge first which has four tabs that go into slots in the metal frame.

The cable slips easily in the small space between windshield and A-pillar. If the fit between glass and plastic on your car doesn't hold the cable in place, wedge it in with a narrow strip of cardboard, plastic or perhaps a dab or two of clear plastic cement.

At the lower end go all the way out to end of the pillar cover before bringing the cable back in the crack between dash and door edge.

I removed the few screws (including the one fastening the OBD port shrouding) holding the bottom edge of the padded dash so I could push the cable in behind where it wouldn't fall back out, then replaced the screws.

Plug in the cable that came with the Scangauge into the D-shaped OBD jack, and loop it around so it comes out where your ethernet cable comes out (past the last screw). Connect your two cables with the coupler and coil up the excess. There is room behind the plastic shrouding just to the right of the accelerator pedal to store the coiled cables.

I removed the screw in the side of the plastic just to the right of the pedal. and inserted a piece of thin metal flat bar about 4" long, with a hole near the end for the screw to pass thru, to serve as a retainer behind which to tuck the cabling. You can easily remove your Scangauge and its cable to use in another vehicle, without disturbing any of the ethernet cable.

I put both pieces of velcro that came with the SG on the top of the unit, plugged in the ethernet cable into the back port, and adhered it right above the mirror, moved forward enough so that it is right up tight against the mirror mount. This gives me a little extra insurance if I press the buttons too hard, as it's not just the velcro I'm pushing against.

Sorry I didn't get a picture of the upper panel off to put here...

[dancote]

Originally Posted by Perscitus

Finally got my Scangauge II mounted.

I'm a real klutz. Would you consider installing mine the same way? PM me.

[jthomas119]

Originally Posted by SuperGeek

Open loop means the thermostat, O2 sensors and other emissions control systems have yet to engage full computer-control mode of the air/fuel mix, timing, etc. Typically the first minute or two of a cold engine warming up is spent in open loop, or in full throttle. ...

This matches what I see more or less. When I start in the morning it is in OPEN LP, after a few blocks it switches to CLSD LP and then for a mile or so, it seems to switch back and forth between OPEN and CLSD then it stays at CLSD except when I am coasting. 9999 mpg and OPEN LP.

The reason I was looking at it is that I (and a few others) have a problem with very poor gas mileage. In my case it is caused by most of my miles being short drives where the motor barely get warmed up and I was wondering if it was caused by the thermostat opening up the radiator sooner than it should. I assume that cars still have thermostats?
Watching the water temperature gauge, my car seems to warm up gradually to about 180 over the 1st 2-3 miles or so. Is that normal or should it warm up quickly to some intermediate value and then when the thermostat opens, warmup more slowly.

John

[SuperGeek]

Originally Posted by jthomas119

This matches what I see more or less. When I start in the morning it is in OPEN LP, after a few blocks it switches to CLSD LP and then for a mile or so, it seems to switch back and forth between OPEN and CLSD then it stays at CLSD except when I am coasting. 9999 mpg and OPEN LP.

The reason I was looking at it is that I (and a few others) have a problem with very poor gas mileage. In my case it is caused by most of my miles being short drives where the motor barely get warmed up and I was wondering if it was caused by the thermostat opening up the radiator sooner than it should. I assume that cars still have thermostats?
Watching the water temperature gauge, my car seems to warm up gradually to about 180 over the 1st 2-3 miles or so. Is that normal or should it warm up quickly to some intermediate value and then when the thermostat opens, warmup more slowly.

John

Short drives are murder. The engine is most efficient after it's heated up both the coolant and oil, which takes more than 3 miles. Most cars will heat up coolant to 100-110 within a minute of idling, and then to 180-200 F after 15 mins or so. It's like boiling water for pasta... when you're on the throttle, the stove's set on high. When you're idling, the stove's on low. Eventually it'll get there, but regardless it still takes time.

I couldn't say with authority if modern cars and/or the Smart have a thermostat. I would imagine they do, but maybe controlled by ECU instead of whatever they used in the olden days.

For mileage reference... I have a 4.4 mile trip to work, and my Scangauge says with all the stoplights I averaged 14mph and 29mpg today. Yesterday I went through a drive-thru at Krispy Kreme, missed traffic by a few minutes and I got 33mpg avg. I didn't notice my avg speed, but I didn't wait at the lights as much. I did push the pedal harder than normal, and yesterday for just a second, I hit the rev limiter as I forgot I was in manual mode.